Hollywood and Vaino JT


Original Post
Rolf Rybak · · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 121

Does anyone know the history behind this route in Indian Cove, old1/4" studs on this route at the start? Were they slung with wires on the first ascent as protection?
Have the upper bolts been replaced since the FA. It as great looking route , I'd gladly apply for a permit to upgrade it if I knew the history.
Are the original climbers still around? . FFA: Vaino Kodas, Herb Laegar & Mike Jaffe, 11/80

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 282

Maybe the FA people will have input.

No permit is needed to just fix the bolts in non-wilderness.
You do need to know how to remove & replace old bolts properly.

Rolf Rybak · · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 121

Placed and replaced hundred at my local crags, always like to talk with the first FAClimber before starting anything

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 5

Herb Laeger is around. He posts occasionally on this site. He's selling a guide to the Kernvillle area climbs so can probably find him thru that source.

Herb Laeger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 5

Vaino and I did that route many years ago. We did not use any bolts for aid and all drilling was one on the lead. That being said I can't remember much about the route but I don't think there were any bolts on it when we started. There is a good chance that we used 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolts when we did it.
Herb Laeger
PS You have my permission to replace and old or questionable bolts.

Rolf Rybak · · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 121

Thanks Herb. Some one has placed 4 or more 1/4" studs at the start of the route , I figured you guys just ran it out on that slab. Do those old studs have some historical importance or were they added by some one else?
Also some ugly graffiti scratched at the base and a foot long arrow scratched into the rock mid way. Indian Cove is seeing more of this crap. Let me know your thoughts and I'll talk to Parks and see if they have ideas for cleaning up the graffiti.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

Herb... in the flesh!!! Happy New Year.

Jaffe is still around... last seen at the 2006 StoneMaster reunion.

Would be cool to know what Vaino is doing now.

And Rolf.... Paint remover works on granite, something to do on a rainy day. And you have my permission to change out any old suspect bolts on any climb I have my name attached to... as long as its hole for hole. A bunch of those have been replaced already.... about 15 years ago a certain woman, took up a keen hatred of my partner Kris.... and chopped every bolt he placed on any and all climbs with his name associated with.... we went back and replaced a whole mess pounded over 1/4 with 3/8 stainless... but she didn't get them all.

George Perkins · · The Dungeon, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,104

It's been ~5 years since I ran into him, but at that time (and I suspect still currently) Vaino was living in Albuquerque and in recent years has been one of the more active bolters of new sport climbs in NM- some are really really good!

I don't have his personal contact info, but here's his website and he might receive messages through his mountainproject account.
http://vainokodas.com/

Nice guy.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

George Perkins .... thanks for that.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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