Mountain Project Logo

Turnkorner at Lumpy

Original Post
Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 85

I would like to try and get on it this year. Anyone who's climbed if you could suggest any similar pitches to the crux pitch so I can get on these prior and get a feel what I'm getting myself into? Any location on the Front range I'll give it a go. Thanks

Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

Main Street in vedauwoo is maybe a little easier.

Captain beyond on Mickey Mouse wall id say is about the same difficulty.

Grand mothers challenge on Redgarden takes about the same energy but isn't "offwidth" per se.

Bring the 5 for sure. If you wanna do more actual climbing and less bumping of the cam bring two. Leave the first before you Turnkorner ;).

Don Morris · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 1,228

Get on some classic Layton Kor routes (Eldorado Springs Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park and in the Southwest Desert of Utah). I am a fan of Layton's routes, and they all have his distinctive style. Meaning: Burley (a mixture of off-width, chimney and face that requires every part of your body). Tough and strong (his routes make you push, grimace, eke and sometimes almost whimper). Mental (there will be a section or sections that will be runout and committing; you will have to be okay with that). Your experience on Layton's other climbs will prepare you for Turnkorner. Turnkorner has it all as described above. What can be helpful with this approach is that you will discover your strengths and what is difficult for you on a Layton route, and thus determine the best pitches for you to lead.

Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 93
By Gully @ Castle Rock is good one for OW practice. Captain Beyond is well worth the hike in, every pitch is stellar. I still haven't gotten the OW pitch clean...
Alan Ream · · Lafayette CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,170

Grand Giraffe in Eldo might be worthy practice too. Its been a long while but the most difficult part of Turnkorner for me was the long sustained flaring "5.9" after the wide roofy bit. It goes on and on! Both great routes +1 for Grandmother's and Captain Beyond too. All fantastic- have fun!

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,205

Its not so much about the moves as knowing/deciding where to go. If you "do it wrong" it is hard and hard to protect on specified gear. If you do it right, it is both safe and correctly graded.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply