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Joshua Tree Bouldering Recommendations for shorties?


Original Post
Leslie Rose · · Los Angeles, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

Just enjoyed a good day of bouldering, and have one more day tomorrow. I'm looking for recommendations for good boulder problems that are either less height dependent or fun for shorties. I'm 5'1! In particular anything with stemming, roofs, offwidths, or chimneys. The Hobbit Hole was awesome.

What would people suggest?

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 307

Stemming: A street car named desire, stem gem
roofs/offwidths: big bob's big wedge, the inquisition
chimneys: go scrambling

Happiegrrrl · · Gunks · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 60

If you haven't gone over to the Gunsmoke Traverse yet, you should. It's also nea the A Streetcar Named Desire, mentioned above.

There is lot's of fun stuff in the Outback.

I'm 5'4" but don't know if 3 inches makes much difference.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Height is not an issue on most things. My daughter is about 4'10" and seems to make things work. Other girls her age, who also compete, are all about the same height (or shorter) and crush all the same. Having said that someone recommended Gunsmoke, which is one of the few problems I can think of that is trickier if short. Turnbuckle would be a problem as well. Don't bother with Streetcar if V6 is hard. The start has gotten so polished from people who probably couldn't follow .10a trying it over and over. (Sorry for the grouse). Let's put it this way. I've been climbing out there since Lynn Hill has. Whenever I thought something was height dependent (I'm 5'7"), she'd come by and figure out a way past it. That's one reason why she's so good.

Erik Wessner · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5
Fat Dad wrote:Height is not an issue on most things. My daughter is about 4'10" and seems to make things work. Other girls her age, who also compete, are all about the same height (or shorter) and crush all the same. Having said that someone recommended Gunsmoke, which is one of the few problems I can think of that is trickier if short. Turnbuckle would be a problem as well. Don't bother with Streetcar if V6 is hard. The start has gotten so polished from people who probably couldn't follow .10a trying it over and over. (Sorry for the grouse). Let's put it this way. I've been climbing out there since Lynn Hill has. Whenever I thought something was height dependent (I'm 5'7"), she'd come by and figure out a way past it. That's one reason why she's so good.
I'm so glad someone said this, at 6'3" i always hear "he's only good because he's tall" Some of the best climbers in the world are shorties, height hurts me more than it helps, especially on short roofs and sit starts.
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Well, being tall can make some problems ALOT easier (and cut the number of moves in half). This is particularly true for problems with high starting holds. Lots of hard core, old school boulders, folks like Gill, Jim Holloway, Largo, Bachar, etc., were not short. However, you're right. It's definitely not true across the board and I'm sure it's frustrating to hear your successes blamed on your height rather than your skill. It's interesting though to see the progression towards shorter and shorter boulderers like Sean McColl or Ashima.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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