Broken Stinger frontpoint bolt

Original Post
KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125

So, even a wimpy 125 lb old lady can break the bolt that holds the frontpoint on a Black Diamond Stinger crampon in just a few seasons. I found the same size bolt at a bike shop in stainless. Does this bolt need to be a particular grade, or is the stainless one fine? The BD website is useless and does not have replacement parts. There are some tiny markings on the head of the new bolt, which look like "J6" and "A3" to old myopic eyes, if that is helpful. I actually got two of the replacement bolts. If they are acceptable, I'll change out the other bolt before it breaks.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,755

Grade 8 bolts are the really strong ones. Tougher than SS. Homely Despot might have one if the crampon bolt is a common size.

scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125

Have you tried calling BD? They have been super cool when ever I had a issue with their equipment. Replaced, free shipping , ect-

shoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 75
scott fuzz wrote:Have you tried calling BD? They have been super cool when ever I had a issue with their equipment. Replaced, free shipping , ect-
I have also had success e-mailing them and getting replacement parts for crampons in the past. Definitely give it a go. But honestly, I would probably slap on the stainless bolts and call it a day.

Unasked for comments: Sounds most likely like a rusting / corrosion issue to me. Making sure your crampons dry out quickly after use would help, but shit happens. The bolts being loose could also contribute if that was a factor.

However, I wish BD supplied stainless nuts and bolts to start with, as that would help prevent problems like this. I believe the ones they supply are chromoly steel (but someone else with better knowledge should chime in), which may contribute to galvanic corrosion between the stainless frame and the bolt.
Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

Call BD for little parts like that. I was looking for a new washer for changing cyborgs to monopoint and struggled with the website. But then I called and got what I needed in 5-min.

The SS bolt will be fine. SS is plenty strong and will last much longer with its better corrosion resistance (the likely reason your bolt broke). Don't worry about galvanic corrosion.

Josh Hutch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 95

Call em. Broke mine 2 weeks ago and got it replaced, no issues.

Keenan Waeschle · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 210

These things break all the time, and it's not due to corrosion. I've snapped a bolt after just a month and a half of use. Basically amounts to a general reliability issue. Replace those bolts every couple months if you're worried about it, or at least don't rely on them for anything other than cragging.

I've broken G20's as well (not catastrophically, although I have friends who have). Shit breaks, climbing isn't safe, you're gonna die.

Topher42 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50

I break mine all the F in time. It pisses me off.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,755

OK, I've been looking into this. If Keenan is correct that it's not corrosion (that's consistent with my look at Kathy's other bolt - no rust to speak of, but plenty of wear on the bolt), then stainless is NOT what you want. According to several manufacturers, stainless is only about half as strong in yield and tensile strength as the high-strength steel that it seems all small socket head cap screws are made out of e.g. 12.9 grade in metric screws. So if anyone thinks an ounce of prevention is worth anything, you want M5-.80 x 30mm socket head screws. Lowes sells a 2 pack of them for $1.73. Get new Nylock nuts while you're there, as those things aren't reliable once they've been removed and re-installed; a pack of 4 costs $.68.

If you can't get metric, 10-32 is very close. It's about 6/1000" smaller than M5-.80 so there's a wee bit more clearance for movement (and movement is bad).

Danforth · · Cody, WY · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

Stainless is definitely weaker. Over torqued bolts can also cause premature failure, which is why I use a torque wrench on just about everything. Sounds like it happens enough with the Stingers that it's some sort of design flaw, though I've heard from other people that it should just be considered a wear part.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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