Time for new bolts?


Original Post
Randy Sandoval · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

Holy Shit.

Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,497

I'd rap off of that. ;-)

s.price · · PS,CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,348
Bill Lawry wrote:I'd rap off of that. ;-)
You probably have.
Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,497
s.price wrote: You probably have.
Lol.

Well, then I'm grateful to be able to say Happy New Year!
Isaac Bohrer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 20

Looks bomber to me

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,267

What's left of that bolt is pretty special. All jokes, levity, and sarcasm aside that bolt likely protected many ascents without anyone giving it much thought. Now, hopefully a replacement has been rendered.

Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,497

Good point. It may be a dead soldier - but a soldier none the less. :-)

Erik Keever · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 245

Eeeek, 1/4" bolts are bad enough when they're brand new, but you at least know they'll hold if you call take... This is worse: purely psychological pro that wouldn't stop a dropped hat, but doesn't admit so.

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 230

How did u get it out without breaking!

Clearly if you can remove it in one piece it is still good for use.

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Nice reminder of what you can't see is every bit as critical as what you can see.

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 930

That certainly looks like galvanic corrosion. Will the OP please tell us from where this bolt was removed?

Randy Sandoval · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

Not my pull. Found it on the net. I would assume from a coastal environment
. I think the lesson here is the topside of the bolt doesn't look all that bad. Little surface rust. How many people clipped this thing without knowing what lay under the hanger. I know I will always start looking at every bolt with suspicion in the future.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

I replaced a rap station that I had used several times, I pried the bolts out with my nut tool just to see if it could be done..... sometimes when you replace anchors it's really easy, sometimes the bolt you are replaceing is completly truck. Can never tell untill you go for it.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:That certainly looks like galvanic corrosion.
No, it doesn't, that is very obviously uniform corrosion, it may have been sped up by galvanic corrosion, but there is nothing in the photo that indicates galvanic corrosion at all.
mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 6

i don't understand how that bolt was removed-- unless it was possible to pull the whole thing out by hand... doesn't look like the nut was ever removed. something is fishy...

Martin Roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 95
Randy Sandoval wrote:Not my pull. Found it on the net. I would assume from a coastal environment . I think the lesson here is the topside of the bolt doesn't look all that bad. Little surface rust. How many people clipped this thing without knowing what lay under the hanger. I know I will always start looking at every bolt with suspicion in the future.
I agree about the lesson to be learned.
Hanger looked OK but the bolt clearly looks like it was just plated steel.

How does this one look? We've all clipped bolts like this haven't we?...

Bolt and hanger from Malta

Not so good from the other side though, it failed when the climber leaned back on it at the belay station, the other anchor bolt held thankfully...

Failed bolt from Malta
King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Sweet Jeebus.

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10

Plated steel mixed with ocean air? A recipe for certain failure, from what other's have stated. Pretty crazy stuff there!

Nice pic grab Benji! Making the OP's pic your avatard.

Hung Huynh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

so next time at belay station/anchor, do a take and give a hard tug to see if it's good before lower/rappel?

Xavier Legendre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Hello,
This bolt is not plated steel ,as indeed mixing a plated steel bolt with a stainless steel hanger (Here FIXE inox) will entail a fast galvanic corrosion , but is , in fact A2 (low grade) stainless steel as you can see when you look closely at the bolt...
Malta is an island in the mediteraneean sea, the climbing routes are on sea cliffs and this is one more example of low grade(A2) bolt failures aroud the mediterranean sea.
Others examples of this can be found in Sicily (San Vito lo capo), Sardinia(Biridiscottai cliffs )in Cala Gonone and , very recently in Masua in southern Sardinia , see photo...
among others...
Climb safe!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply