Building a rack, what to buy?


Original Post
Dacker89 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks in advance for the info. I climb mostly in CCC and South Platte but am looking at getting into Eldo next summer. What size of cams do you recommend for these areas? So far I have a set of stoppers and one .3, .5, .75, 2 & 3 BD Cam.

Adam Fleming · · Moab, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 303

First, fill out the rest of your cams (.4, 1). Apline draws come in handy in Eldo. After that, double up on the sizes you find yourself wishing you had two of. A 4 can wait, but opens up some more climbs for you.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Why the hell don't you have a #1? Probably the most placed piece, especially for new leaders (common perfect hand crack size). You'll probably want a 0.4 as well...otherwise that's a good starting rack, assuming you have slings/alpine draws and anchor gear. If not, that should be your priority after getting a #1.

Nicholas Aretz · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Before you start to double up get a set of C3 or cams similar size. I like the C3 because they fit in pin scars well.

You for sure need a #1 but that is a tight hand for me. I hate tight hands. I would much rather climb a #2 size crack.

Also a 4, 5, and 6 can not wait. You need to climb the Voo.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Lol. A 4 is eventually useful, 5 and 6 definitely can wait...maybe forever, unless you decide that you absolutely MUST do Offwidths.

Tim Meehan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 145

I vote for a 0.4 and a 1 C4. I also use pink and red tricam evos and smallish offset nuts (brass or alum alloy DMM) on almost every climb. Have a cordelette for multipitch yet?

Nate K · · Richmond, VT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 170

for Eldo youll want DMM peanuts and yellow, blue and red DMM offsets, mix a few BD stoppers in and youve got a good nut selection. Get a .2 sized piece like the yellow X4 or equivalent.

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Try climbing on the rack you have. That'll tell you what you're missing.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
Tim Meehan wrote:I vote for a 0.4 and a 1 C4.
+1
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 438
don'tchuffonme wrote:Try climbing on the rack you have. That'll tell you what you're missing.
That's entirely too simple and honest of a response.
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Adam Fleming wrote:First, fill out the rest of your cams (.4, 1). Apline draws come in handy in Eldo.
This.

don'tchuffonme wrote:Try climbing on the rack you have. That'll tell you what you're missing.
Plus this.

Complete your "basic" single rack. Then expand as you need/want. Not sure you can do that climb you want to do with the gear you have? Buy what you need to be comfortable. Ideally climb with people who also have a single rack,. and pay attention to when you need to use their gear, vs your own.

Or just go all out a buy a double rack and be done with it...

Make sure you can extend pieces appropriately to prevent drag and walking.
(not sure for your specific location much much is needed, but for reference I often can carry up to four shoulder slings w/ single biner, four alpine draws, and two 20" quick draws. I also have two 30cm slings set up as draws I sometimes carry, but mostly consider that a failed experiment.)
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
Brian L. wrote: I also have two 30mm slings set up as draws I sometimes carry, but mostly consider that a failed experiment.)
30 mm slings are pretty short. :) About an inch and a quarter long. But I'll bet they don't weigh much.
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote: 30 mm slings are pretty short. :) About an inch and a quarter long. But I'll bet they don't weigh much.
Haha, oops. Meant 30cm. I'm so used to working with small increments in my job; I must have hit the "m" twice on reflex.

Fixed.
Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 8

At least 3 of these:

BIG CAM!

Scott Baird · · Hagerstown, MD · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 80
Gold Plated Rocket Pony wrote:At least 3 of these:
I want to see a pic of someone racked with these, on a climb.
Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 8

Seriously here's my standard eldo rack:

  • Standard set of nuts (I have DMM wallnuts but whatever you like)
  • Metolius Astro Nuts 'Free Set' or similar RPs (optional)
  • BD x4 0.1 or similar mastercam/alien (optional)
  • BD x4 0.2 or similar mastercam/alien (optional)
  • BD x4 0.3 or similar mastercam/alien -> doubles
  • BD x4 0.4 or similar mastercam/alien -> doubles
  • BD C4's doubles on 0.5 to 3
  • 8 alpine draws
  • 4 to 8 sport draws
  • 2 cordelettes w/ locking carabiners

That should get you up/down most routes in eldo. Probably overkill for some.
Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

It helps to have small gear for Eldo. Buy a set of rps. Some will say you won't need them at the lower grades but when I first started I found it comforting given all the tiny cracks on just about every pitch in Eldo. Once you finish out your c4 rack (which everyone should have at least one), you might look at getting totems. Having both ridged and flexible stemmed cams allows for a wider variety of placements.

trice Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

I find a placement for an offset nut on just about every climb in eldo. 100% worth the money IMO.

For what its worth I +1 on the .4 and 1. They will be helpful on just about every climb

I also prefer double in .3-2 in eldo. You should wait to double up until after you do a few climbs and see what pieces of gear you find yourself placing most often.

I like totem basics for my micros .1 and .2 (almost always find a .2 placement)

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 601

This is the first out of 2 years of trad climbing that I've gotten large finger size cams stuck. Get finger sizes!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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