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Twall Info


Original Post
Sammyastra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Hi! I am visiting Twall for around a week in early January for the first time and I am looking for some info on camping and climbing in the area. The MP description says that there is free camping at the turn-off, are there generally spots available this time of year? What temps can I expect in early January? Is a guidebook required/necessary or can one get by with just the route database on MP? I am bringing a "standard" double rack and 70m rope, any pieces of gear that are essential/often overlooked? Any under-rated essential moderates I can't miss?

Thanks so much for your help!

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 160

1. It's usually easy to find a camping spot at Twall, although it can get crowded, trashy, and the site has been known to have break-ins in the past.

2. There's a good guidebook by Rob Robinson that should be available at Rock Creek Outfitters in town.

3. Your rack and rope should be fine; don't forget plenty of slings.

4. Where Lizards Dare (5.9+/10a ish) is a great moderate, steep with big holds, and usually less crowded than a lot of other routes.

Have fun!

Sammyastra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Thank you Pnelson!

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

temps are very doable as long as the sun is it. When the sun's out a t-shirt can be good enough for most of the day. MP is pretty good but the guides are a lot nicer, especially if you don't know the area because they have photo topos. Also the routes are a bit more organized in the guidebooks than on MP. If you can afford to pick one up do it, if not you can usually look at somebody else's copy.

For the moderate classics, do whatever doesn't have a line on it.

Sammyastra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks Eli! Good to know!

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

You can climb comfortably at T-wall in 30degree weather if the sun is out. The camping is right behind the parking area. There are a couple of fire pits, but it is not a maintained campground of any type. I don't think you would ever have any trouble finding a spot to pitch your tent. There is additional campground about ten minutes away- hunters check station (also free).

While climbing I would store camping gear out of sight and take valuables up to the crag with you. I have camped there many times and never had any trouble, but have been present when someone's car has been broken into.

You will definitely do better with a guidebook, the photos are very helpful. I have found a #4 camalot is helpful for some routes, but certainly not a necessity.

Have fun!

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

Also, if you use tricams, bring them to T-wall. The moderates eat them up and most routes have at least one horizontal. If you dig hexes, I've found them to be nice on some of the longer routes where you want doubles. That being said, I've only climbed up to 5.9 so perhaps the harder routes don't take them quite as well. I think my most commonly placed piece at T-wall would be the orange metolius.

I haven't heard of any break-ins during the past couple of years that I've visited T-wall (my parents live in chattanooga) but don't take any chances with it. It just isn't worth it. If you have a car, it's probably worth it to camp at the hunter's campground in Prentice Cooper state forest and not risk potential theft. It's only like 10min from there to T-wall, maybe less if you go fast on the dirt roads.

Finally, it's a good thing you brought a 70m rope. A lot of the routes are a "long" 30m and you can also do one of the moderates (Let's Face it) all in one pitch rather than two.

Sammyastra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks! Any rainy day climbing spots around that area (sport or trad)?

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341
Pnelson wrote:1. It's usually easy to find a camping spot at Twall, although it can get crowded, trashy, and the site has been known to have break-ins in the past. 2. There's a good guidebook by Rob Robinson that should be available at Rock Creek Outfitters in town. 3. Your rack and rope should be fine; don't forget plenty of slings. 4. Where Lizards Dare (5.9+/10a ish) is a great moderate, steep with big holds, and usually less crowded than a lot of other routes. Have fun!
4. I think P Nelson meant Where Lizards Go to Die mountainproject.com/v/where… which is a nod to "Where Lizard's Dare" an incredibly sandbagged 9+ at the Red.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470

It's just a dirt lot off the dirt road, so you can walk into the woods away from your car to get more privacy if you like. It's amazing how thick the tree cover is there.

Austin Martin · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 40

Car Break ins are unfortunately very common at T-wall. If possible, leave your car empty and unlocked. If not, attempt to coordinate being dropped off and then picked up. Choosing to leave gear/etc in a locked car can very easily result in busted windows and stolen stuff.

Buy "Chatt Trad", or borrow it from a local. Alternatively Dixie Cragger's Atlas will be of use.

Check out the steeps at Deep Creek of Fosters for dry stone on a wet day.
-Austin

DanielHart · · Carpinteria ca · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

I would recommend staying at the crash pad in town they are super reasonable and more than likely you'll find someone that knows the area willing to give you beta depending on the weather.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 160
DrRockso wrote: 4. I think P Nelson meant Where Lizards Go to Die mountainproject.com/v/where… which a nod to "Where Lizard's Dare" an incredibly sandbagged 9+ at the Red.
Yes! That's the one.
Jesse Rigsby · · Eagleville,Tennessee · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 45

Does t-wall have its own guide book?

Crackdiva · · Chattanooga, TtN · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Basic rack is fine. Short pitches usually. I have an Airbnb 14 mi to T. wall. Private space and guidebooks. U can camp but it's trashy. I can climb weekends.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456
Jesse Rigsby wrote:Does t-wall have its own guide book?
Yes T-wall has its own guidebook and there used to be a really nice guidebook app for the east side but I think it might be gone now. I've looked at the Chatt Trad guidebook and its section on T-wall is really nice with photo topos and everything. I haven't used the T-wall specific guide, though, so I'm not sure about that one.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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