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Good shorter multipitches/single pitch trad in Red Rock

Original Post
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Hey everyone,

So I'm planning a trip to RR in a few months and have my eye on a few of the big multipitch classics. I'm probably going to fly in on a Friday morning and hope to do a half day the first day to get acclimated and dial , so I'm looking for some good 1-3 pitches, preferably with shorter (for Red Rocks) approaches. I know about Physical Graffiti and Big Bad Wolf so Calico Basin is a possibility. Great Red Book looks cool, but not sure if it's worth a trip to the Calico Hills, as the rest of the area is mostly spot. Ragged Edges and the Willow Spring area in general looks promising, but I'll probably be visiting in February, and it sounds like the aspect isn't great for winter climbing. What do you guys recommend?

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

My suggestion for a first day half day would be doing both physical graffiti and big bad wolf. The walk off is simple and you can watch the sunset from the summit and be back on in the ground before dark.

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,012

Since you arrive at the airport in the morning, you may not be able to get out to the crags until noon or so. You may find the Physical Graffiti area going in to the shade shortly thereafter. I'd suggest Great Red Book, you won't be disappointed in that route because it's really fun and it would get some afternoon sun. The upper dihedral may be shady but the walk-off would be sunny at least. Other suggestions for short-approach, afternoon-sun areas would include Moderate Mecca, a few routes in Willow Springs like Outhouse Wall or Chocolate Rocks.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Cool, thanks guys.

Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 156

I second what Eli says. Those two routes should chew up a couple hours each when you figure in descents, approaches, and all. If you do have extra time afterward, though, you'll be very close to Moderate Mecca, which has several short single-pitch trad routes.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Yeah, I figure I may as well pay my dues and stop by Cannibal Crag to do Caustic while I'm there, lol.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

When are you coming to town?

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

I would like to add that my advice upthread was based on experience climbing at the end of november, so if the weather is colder, you may require more sun exposure. I'd take the advice of John Hegyes as he's a local who knows the area better than I. Don't forget that daylight is very limited this time of year so bring headlamps and err on the side of shorter objectives.

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

I went to Ragged Edges for a half day after a morning flight from NYC last March and was quite happy. It was pretty mild weather though.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
John Wilder wrote:When are you coming to town?
Probably President's Day weekend. Just waiting for my partner to finalize his work schedule.
Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 450

This route is shady, so a no go for a cold day, but with a 7 min walk uphill you'd warm up and it's a fun and fast route, outside of the loop, saving precious time, go to the calico basin, black walls (aka happy acres), and climb three pitches of "all that Jazz". It climbs fast, and has excellent views on top.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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