Keeping my trad climbing alive


Original Post
Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 50

One of my New Years resolution is to do some trad climbing on some of my rest days. Since most of the times it will be a second day on after a bouldering day, we are talking about long super-easy routes (like a 2-3 pitch 5.4). There was a time when I was ONLY doing trad and have even RP-ed some harder routes. However, I have not touched my gear for just about a year, so I have probably forgotten a bunch of details.

The main purpose is to get out with my non-bouldering climbing friends but also to keep my trad skills somewhat alive should I decide to get back to doing it seriously.

PS. no real question in this post, just wanted to hear people's thoughts on this idea

will ar · · San Antonio, TX · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 215

When you only climbed trad how hard where you climbing? Your profile stays V7 and if you're comfortable pushing your limits on gear that could translate into way harder than 5.4. In my experience climbing on really easy routes doesn't seem to do anything for me in regards to practicing placing gear because it's so easy that I can 1)take as long as I want to place gear or more likely 2) I just keep running it out until a see a straightforward text book placement. Maybe if you went in with the attitude that you were going to seek out difficult or complex gear placements you may bet some benefit out of it (besides just having fun of course).

How much experience did you have trad climbing before you took a year off?

Edit: you could also probably get on stuff many number grades harder without affecting your recovery from the day before.

Alexander K · · The road · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 45

Something else to consider. Generally 5.4 stuff has lots of nice ledges to hit and less asthetic climbing. That's a reason to climb harder right there.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

You're in NYC?

If so, focus on 5.6-5.8 in the Gunks... that should keep you busy for a while.

Agree with the orevious poster, easy climbs don't require quick placements, finding spots that work for gear etc.

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 50

Hmm. Valid points about easy routes not really stressing my gear placement skills. I don't expect to fall on such easy ground, I'd probably be comfortable going up such routes unroped. On the other hand, at least at the Gunks, anything harder seems to stress my shoulders enough to avoid on the rest days.

JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 13

You can always make your gear placements artificially tricker. Place off hand, only place nuts, only place from bad feet, etc...

Nolan Huther · · Clarkson University · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 567

5.4, unaesthetic, lots of ledges? Probably true, usually, but not at all in the GUNKS. One of the few places where 5.2-5.6 can have big exposure, tricky situations and at least a little guts! As a Dackie who stopped by the Gunks once, I was blown away by the commitment, exposure and high quality of such easy routes from the small selection I had. Can't wait to visit again! How often do you have hanging belays on a 5.5? Or total air beneath you on a 5.4? Or Committing roof moves on a 5.6? Definitely can stay busy there at an easy grade for a while

Gelsa- courtesy MP description

JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0
Nolan Huther wrote:5.4, unaesthetic, lots of ledges? Or total air beneath you on a 5.4? Or Committing roof moves on a 5.6? Definitely can stay busy there at an easy grade for a while
LOVE me some Gelsa! climbed it for the first time this fall when Trapps was super busy. Actually it was first time in the Nears at all. Literally giggled my way up P3 of Gelsa. It is seriously THAT fun. As the Gunks app states, 5.12 exposure on a 5.4.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,575
ChrisN wrote:You're in NYC? If so, focus on 5.6-5.8 in the Gunks... that should keep you busy for a while. Agree with the orevious poster, easy climbs don't require quick placements, finding spots that work for gear etc.
You live near maybe the best easy-mod (and harder) trad areas anywhere..start slow and head up, there's pretty much no limit in the Gunks..then head up to NH
Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 50

Yeah, Gunks is good like that! Plus, I will get a chance to do all thé easy classic routes that I was putting off

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 95

I took a decade off from trad climbing and jumped right back into it. But then, I am an engineer and gear placements make sense. The climbing is the hard part.

Look, it depends how comfortable you were a year ago. If placing gear was sketchy then, it will be more so now. If you are a stronger climber, it may make placing gear easier since you are not pumped out fidgeting with your gear.

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 90
"5.12 exposure on a 5.4"

This might be taking it a bit far. As to the OP, all I can say is "Trad is Rad". Best climbing experience there is!
JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0
Russ Keane wrote:"5.12 exposure on a 5.4" This might be taking it a bit far.
take that up with the Gunks App folks.
Daniel Simon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Great Ideas!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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