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Switching shoes


Original Post
Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130

So my trusted ladies Miuras and a brand new pair of Futuras recently got stolen together with a bunch of other stuff. I have a pair of Scapa Instinct VS that are fairly comfortable and are on the last legs. So it's time to buy myself a present.

What's out there that's down turned, good at edging, solid at heel hooks and in general will be suitable for bouldering? I am ready to look at any manufacturer, as long as I can return them if they don't fit.

PS. Best fit was achieved from the scarpas above and by madrock sharks, as a reference to my foot shape

Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

If you like miuras but want a shoe that will hold its shape for many resoles and can edge on anything look into the katana lace. Fits wide feet well too.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

He asked for a downturned bouldering shoe...KL is neither. Some popular options:

LS Solutions
LS Genius
Evolv Shaman
Tenaya Oasi
Five Ten Hiangle
Five Ten Blackwing

There are definitely others. Out of curiosity, why aren't you getting another pair of Scarpa Instincts? If the shoe fits...

Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175
Ted Pinson wrote:He asked for a downturned bouldering shoe...KL is neither.
La sportiva seems to think they're downturned and "ideally suited for bouldering and overhanging terrain."
mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

You can probably find really good deals on last year's Evolv Shaman, since there is an updated model.

I find it compares very well to the Miura VS (the heel might even be better), and is a steal at the clearance prices out there.

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130
mbk wrote:You can probably find really good deals on last year's Evolv Shaman, since there is an updated model. I find it compares very well to the Miura VS (the heel might even be better), and is a steal at the clearance prices out there.
Do you know how the sizes convert? I am 38 to 38.5 in Sportivas
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Evolv are true to size, so size up from Sportiva. I got my street shoe size (13) in Shamans and they were quite snug. For comparison, my Solutions are size 44 (10.5).

Andrewww · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 620

I wear a 39.5 in sportiva generally, old Shamans I wear an 8.5us/41.5eu. new shaman's I have split sized, left 8us right 7.5us.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

Katana Laces are slightly downturned at the toe. They excell at everything, but I'm assuming they aren't quite what the OP is looking for. If you like a slipper, I'd look at the pythons. They fit my feet so well I don't even have to use the single velcro strap, although it's probably necessary for heel hooking. I've heard good things about the shamans and my experience with other evolv shoes is that they work well with wide feet.

Ralph Swansen · · Denver CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 335

Testarossa. Not as rigid as the soloution.

For me hey are the perfect balance of aggressive yet smear amazingly well as they have just enough give. They fit like another layer of skin on me.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Eh I love katanas for techy vertical stuff but they are quite honestly average to poor when it comes to the steeps...they're just too stiff and flat to grab overhanging footholds and the rubber isn't the stickiest in the world...

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ted Pinson wrote:Evolv are true to size, so size up from Sportiva. I got my street shoe size (13) in Shamans and they were quite snug. For comparison, my Solutions are size 44 (10.5).
Ouch. My toes hurt just from reading that!
Eric Carlos · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 40

I went from the Miura VS shoes to the new Otakis and I love them.

badcarp · · Ooltewah, TN · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 15

I've been using Tenaya Oasi's this season for bouldering and am very pleased. Slight downturn, DEEP heel, and good feel. Not ideal for slab problems, but I keep a pair of Evolve Defy's for those. I can wear the Oasi's for multiple problems without any pain. Sizing is a little tricky and they are a bit pricey, though.

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 498

If you were happy with the Instinct VS, stay with it. If you must try something else, the Otaki is very similar, but lower profile at the toes

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105
Ralph Swansen wrote:Testarossa. Not as rigid as the soloution. For me hey are the perfect balance of aggressive yet smear amazingly well as they have just enough give. They fit like another layer of skin on me.
Same. My favorite performance shoe.

Stiff forefoot so your toes aren't doing all the work, super soft midfoot so they move with you and don't feel like boards. Great lacing system that lets you dial in the perfect fit.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
Marc801 wrote: Ouch. My toes hurt just from reading that!
lol I have extremely narrow heels, and every size above that created huge pockets around my ankles. The Solutions are so soft and stretched enough that they're actually quite comfortable and fit similarly to the 12.5 Shamans. Sportiva sizing is nutty.
Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130
Brian Abram wrote:If you were happy with the Instinct VS, stay with it. If you must try something else, the Otaki is very similar, but lower profile at the toes
I like the fit, but I want something with a bit more tension in the heel, more downturn and a bit softer. I might stay with a two-shoe solution, e.g Instinct VS for slab to mild overhang and something else for really steep stuff.

Have anyone try Scarpa Furia? Is it the same fit as Instinct VS?
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Furia, Drago seem like they would fit your bill.

Zachary Winters · · Mazama, Washington · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 207

+1 Testarossa

Super soft with a stiff toe that keeps it a solid edger.

I also wear the Katana Lace and love it for vertical sport, but the heel is junk for hooking. Basically a TC Pro with a slight downturn.

Only thing about the Testarossa is laces, inconvenient for gym climbing, but the fit so well I don't lace them for bouldering.

Those new LS shoes look interesting too...

Andy Carter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0
Eric Carlos wrote:I went from the Miura VS shoes to the new Otakis and I love them.
I had otakis and also loved them; a fantastic fit. However, both toes wore out in four months. Then I loved them no longer.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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