Why Hard Sport Climbing Is A Sham


Original Post
Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Look, I'm a barely above average climber. I have about 100 5.12 sends under my belt. I routinely onsight 5.12b at crags all across the country, and my best send is 5.13-

I have seen several "big name pros" fail to onsight 5.13-, the same guys who are sending 5.14+ and even 5.15-. What gives? Are these "hardmen" guilty of of the ever prevalent micro-take culture that is plaguing sport climbing? How the hell can you not onsight something that is WELL BELOW your max send.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Is this post related to your recent previous one? Sure looks like it.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/micro-take-culture-in-hard-sport-climbing/112342110

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Onsighting and projecting are two different skills.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Why do you care how other people climb? Why don't you just do it for the fun and challenge, and not worry about others accomplishments?

Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Frank,

I believe the microtake is part of the problem, but not all of it.

I also believe that the sport climbing sham is fueled by these greedy "hardmen's" appetite for harvesting likes on the social media.

Another question, do you think the majority of the climbing world is focusing on themselves and only worrying about their own accomplishments, when these "big name pros" have 60,000 followers?

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 681

Yes....thats it....all those people are "cheating".

You should read up on how some of the hardest routes are graded. This may give you some context before making silly comments.

Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

Sounds like someone's butt-hurt because he didn't get enough likes on Facebook.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 75
Vas Carmicheal wrote:Look, I'm a barely above average climber. I have about 100 5.12 sends under my belt. I routinely onsight 5.12b at crags all across the country, and my best send is 5.13-
Honestly, you sound better than 99% of the climbers I've ever encountered. I'll never reach your level. I'm fine with that ;) People are better than me; people are better than you. That's cool.
Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Your notion of "average" is highly skewed.

climber pat · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 215

I am interested in this topic. I was an average climber back in the day and will never be a good climber again.

Back in the day (1980s) where I climbed if you called yourself a 5.10 (or whatever grade) that meant that you almost certainly could lead without falling most 5.10 climbs on sight. At least that was what I was taught. I was a 5.10c climber back then. I got up a few 5.10d and 5.11a/b but would never had called myself a 5.11 climber.

Now it appears to me that a 5.10 (or whatever) means that after working the route for however long (days, weeks, months) it takes to get up it clean. Get up one of those then you are 5.10 leader.

I get this impression of watching videos of high end climber falling and falling until eventually they get the send. Does my impression really reflect what high grade climbing is about? If so what is the current limit under the old system?

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 230

It probably comes down to the fact if you project a route 5.15a for years you will likely get lucky and climb it one day and at the same time never have climbed a 5.13a.

Climbs are all different so a 5.13 in one style is completely different than a 5.15 in a different style. So you could climb one style good and suck at the other.

It is part of the problem with "climbing hard". Just ignore the grade and find what you like to climb and go for it. It doesn't matter how hard you climb as long as you enjoy doing it.

There are only a handful of people who are going to make a living climbing and it likely isn't going to be any of us.

s.price · · PS,CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,348

You have actually witnessed several top climbers fail on 13-?
Do you follow them around?

When you start climbing hard then maybe you can stand on solid ground with your judgement. Until then it's just Blah, blah, blah.

Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
s.price wrote:You have actually witnessed several top climbers fail on 13-? Do you follow them around? When you start climbing hard then maybe you can stand on solid ground with your judgement. Until then it's just Blah, blah, blah.
You must not climb very much if you haven't run into them, they literally climb all the time
aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 290
Robert Buswold wrote:Sounds like someone's butt-hurt because he didn't get enough likes on Facebook.
LIKE!
Brian Hestetune · · Logan, UT · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 633

Multipitch bouldering is the only true form of climbing.

Bradley Kessler · · Logan, UT · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15
Brian Hestetune wrote:Multipitch bouldering is the only true form of climbing.
Unless you partake in rap brushing, which renders this great style invalid
Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 2,761

Sorry Vas you're no Aleks Sebastian, but good luck with these awesome forum topics you keep coming up with.

JulianG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 130

Chris Sharma goes Back to the Future on “Magie Blanche” (8b+) 1986
https://vimeo.com/145518109

s.price · · PS,CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,348

Does this reek of Ellesnore to anyone else?

Nolan Huther · · Clarkson University · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 602

You got the "snore" right

Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
s.price wrote:Does this reek of Ellesnore to anyone else?
I'm not familiar. Price, you have failed you bring any kind of actual content to this thread, I think you better keep on chuffing along, Hufflepuff.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply