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book: One Move Too Many - new edition

Original Post
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 11,832

Saw in a local shop a new edition of the book on climbing injuries, "One Move Too Many ...", by Volker Schoeffl, Thomas Hochholzer, and Sam Lightner Jr. (Sharp End Publishing 2016).
Noticed it had some newer references in the back, so bought a copy and read the first two chapters. Compared those with my copy of the 2006 edition.

So far the new edition seems not too different from the one ten years ago. A little more detail. Still carries on the practice of not giving footnotes - (and the reference sources at the end of the book are not indexed back to pages or sections in the main text).

In my reading I would notice some useful (or controversial) scientific claim -- then discover that it had already been present in the old edition -- and that I still had no straightforward way to check the scientific basis for that claim.


kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 11,832

I've read lots more of the book now. So far the main differences I've found from the previous edition are: additional statistics on frequency of different climber injuries seen in their practice treating in injuries, and a page-and-a-half about whether climbers are more prone to osteoarthritis.

Given the timing of this new edition, I might have hoped there would be some response to new thinking outside their own practice, like Dave MacLeod's brilliant book, and some of Julian Sanders' articles. But I haven't found it.

My conclusion so far:
If you already own Dave MacLeod's book Make or Break, and you're very interested in climbing injuries, you might want to purchase this book to get a different perspective, or just to stimulate your thinking.
If you already own the previous edition, not much reason to get the new one.


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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