Longs Peak: length of rap from Beaver to Notch


Original Post
Long Ranger · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 75

(1 I'm trying to confirm the length of the rap on Longs Peak from the top of the Beaver/"SE Longs" into the Notch.

I've seen a bolted rap station while on top of the Beaver and I've read you can do the entire rap into the Notch with one 60m rope, making the rap < ~30m. (I've only down climbed Gorrels from here.)

(2. I'm also trying to figure out if there are anchors on the other side of the Notch, accessed by down climbing from the summit south towards the Notch. I do not believe there is, nor do I know the length of a rap. I think it's much more than the other side. Although! although I have seen a slackline setup between the two sides and left there, unattended.

(3. I'm planning some Winter ascents of Longs, and am just trying to keep options open for unplanned retreats. Sometimes Cables can be avy prone - as could the traverse to Kep. from Homestretch. Not a lot of great options.... Any mini epics up Longs in less than ideal Winter conditions?

(4. Wanna join me?! ;)

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

1. I did this last summer. There were two stations that I found. I used the skiers right station and did it in one rap with a 60 meter piece of cord. Pulled the rope and did a few meters of easy down climbing after.

I did not see a rap station going back the other way from the summit.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 75

Thanks, Jon!

Andy Novak · · Golden, Co · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 305

I was there last summer as well. One 30 m rap from webbing around a block (you scramble down a 5 foot section to get to it), then downclimb. Be very careful pulling and KNOT YOUR ENDS cause its a stretcher. You might want to take a knife for the old tat, and some extra cord to add. On the other side there is that nest of bolts for the high line, but I don't think there were rings and I'm not sure how far it is back down. The placement of the bolts look pretty high-line specific. There are lots of blocks to sling in that area so maybe bring a bunch of cord to wrap if you really need to. I'd also be pretty concerned about the Loft apron sliding, as it has slid big in the past.

Be safe and Have fun!

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

Andy, that all makes sense to me now. I found the bolts first, but they just were not quite right in my mind. I kept searching and found the rap that you talked about. Never knew there was a slack line there.

Andy Novak · · Golden, Co · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 305

Jon, quinncarrasco.wordpress.com...

I'm not sure how I feel about 5-7+ bolts being drilled in a National Park just for a high line that might get walked every few years (or far less), but the pictures are cool..

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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