Joshua Tree Bolt Replacement


Original Post
Bob Gaines · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 3,050
the bad stuff we pulled out this week

This week our team of volunteers replaced 50 aging bolts at Joshua Tree National Park. Special thanks to Greg Barnes of the American Safe Climbing Association for providing the bolts and hardware. Thanks to JTNP Climbing Ranger Bernadette Regan for her help in coordinating, and thanks to all who donated their time and hard work: Seth Petit and Frank of Mojave Guides, JTNP Climbing Steward Shelton Hatfield, John Durr, John Lauretig, and Vertical Adventures guide Chris Baumann.

Thanks to Kevin Powell and his continuing efforts; he's replaced hundreds of bolts at Joshua Tree over the years. And thanks to Mark Wagner for developing new bolt pulling technology.

If you'd like to contribute to the American Safe Climbing Association, which provides the expensive stainless steel bolts and hardware for bolt and anchor replacement at Joshua Tree, go to safeclimbing.org

If you know of a route at Joshua Tree with bolts that need replacement, list it here on this thread and we'll put it on our to do list.
Jonathan Z · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 35

Everything up top of outward bound slab

Erik Wessner · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5

Apartheid and Buffalo Soldier at John Bachar Toprope wall. Old, suspect looking bolts on Apartheid and one of the anchor bolts is missing on Buffalo Soldier.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 85

Great work.. Thank you!!!!

susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,650

Thanks again Bob for all the donated time the team put in. Lots of coordination, permits, then actual time doing the work which undoubtably isn't really that fun. ASCA is a great organization and non-profit which supports JTNP and so many areas it's our pleasure, and should be everyone's, to donate when possible.

As for routes... Top of Sunny Delight has been a mess for awhile, I mentioned to KP before so it's possible it's already been taken care of. Fire or Retire could use some some elves.

~Susan

Bob Gaines · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 3,050

Hi Susan, We replaced the Sunny Delight/Fresh Squeezed anchor plus the routes left of Fresh Squeezed this week. So that cliff is good to go!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,772

Great job you guys...thanks!

Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 167

Shrodinger Equation on Copenhagen Wall has a creaky old 1/4" rust bucket on it.

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 681

Double Cross

Mr. Stevens · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 940

Granted it's been a while and may have already been replaced, but I remember the last bolt on The Decompensator of Lhasa being pretty laughable, mostly because all of the other bolts were in great condition and looking to be much newer.

Thanks for all your work!!

Rolf Rybak · · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 131

Nice work, very much appreciated .

Kevin Ranck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 15

Thank you so much for helping to keep everyone safe out there.

dperry427 Perry · · La Habra, California · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

Great work!
Thanks for keeping everyone safe out there!

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

Wow, that's a lot of hardware! Thanks so much, Bob & co!

Steve_Sil. · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 85

Thanks for helping to keep everyone safe!

susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,650
Bob Gaines wrote:Hi Susan, We replaced the Sunny Delight/Fresh Squeezed anchor plus the routes left of Fresh Squeezed this week. So that cliff is good to go!
Coolio - I guess I'll find out myself but did you relocate them a bit too? Their position didn't help.

~S
Bob Gaines · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 3,050
Mr. Stevens wrote:Granted it's been a while and may have already been replaced, but I remember the last bolt on The Decompensator of Lhasa being pretty laughable, mostly because all of the other bolts were in great condition and looking to be much newer. Thanks for all your work!!
All the bolts on Decompensator of Lhasa were replaced last week- all are now 1/2- inch stainless!
Bob Gaines · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 3,050
susan peplow wrote: Coolio - I guess I'll find out myself but did you relocate them a bit too? Their position didn't help. ~S
That anchor couldn't be moved lower because of rock quality. The bolts are in a small island of good, solid rock, surrounded by an ocean of bad, hollow rock. To set-up a TR you'll still need an extension, although the pull-down on the rappel rope through the anchor rings isn't too bad.
Mr. Stevens · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 940
Bob Gaines wrote: All the bolts on Decompensator of Lhasa were replaced last week- all are now 1/2- inch stainless!
Thanks! Such a good route...I remember just laughing and shaking my head when I clipped that last rusted out buttonhead
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Bob.... outstanding work.

Good job all around, thank you.

I think I see a few 1/4 hangers that belong to me.... can we get them returned?

Ill buy a beer or three.

Alex Shainman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,456

Excellent work and Thank You!

I think the first bolt on Sole Fusion is still a 5/16" buttonhead that's slightly backed out...takes a lot of abuse from falls further out. The other two bolts may also need a quick look at.

Does anyone know the condition of fixed pro (and holds) on these Wonderland routes:
Book of Brilliant Things, Thrill of Desire and Dihedralman

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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