Boulder Area Slab Climbs


Original Post
StuMM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Looking to work on slab climbing, grade 5.10 and up.

Any suggestions on routes? Maybe areas that have a quantity of them.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 105

It's granite heaven. Throw a rock. haha

Bocan and when the weather breaks lumpy. You can slab 5.10 in Estes till the cows come home.

Alexander K · · The road · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 45

Bihedral area has one fantastic 10b and some others that would be great to start on.

The clipboard area at Avalon has an 11- and 11+ side by side that are some of the best around. But really most sections of most routes in Boulder Canyon are granite slab.

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 234
StuMM wrote:Looking to work on slab climbing, grade 5.10 and up. Any suggestions on routes? Maybe areas that have a quantity of them.
Kind of depends what you mean by slab.

For example, I'd call the Clipboard area face climbing.

To me, slab means terrible feet and tiny crystals for fingernails.

The Scientist at Plotinus has a few feet of slab. There's a nice 5.7 on Surprising Crag with a little slab.

Parts of Dream Dome maybe?
Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Here is a thread I started looking for the same thing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/slab-destinations-in-colorado/110348196

Lots of good info in there.

I would consider myself a bit of a slab connoisseur and fairly solid in the discipline. Go climb Tales of Power 11b in upper dream canyon next chance you get. This was the climb I discovered true slab climbing and ranks as one of the best routes I've ever climbed. It has the added bonus of having an improbable looking roof first pitch that you have to slab around (11b) but the money isn't until the second pitch. It also goes as one pitch with manageable drag with about 20 draws. There are a few other climbs around there that serve as good warms ups.

Next, head to Wigwam Dome in the South Platte and climb rambling rose runout 10a, warpath 11a, pow wow canal 11a, el supremo 11b and on the edge 11b. These routes are all stellar with slab cruxes. The climbing is defined by crystal pullin' and nubbin' pinching with small crimps. You will be run out on 5.9+ no more.

Super slab 10+ in Eldo is really good and doesn't deserve the scary reputation it receives (after you climb at wigwam.)

The direct west face of the third flatiron 11b is an incredible slab climb (steep) and its neighbor Waiting for Columbus 10c is amazing as well but maybe more considered face-y. Another one while you're over there is velvet Elvis 11a which is mid 10 slab traverse with a short section of 11a for the last pitch.

Lumpy ridge offers a lot of great slab as does Vedauwoo, just look for bolted routes.

The first pitch of Solarian 10+ is a great slab pitch.
The barb 10b has a slab crux in a gorgeous alpine setting.
Days of heaven 10d is a slab crux in between tasty cracks.
Good Evans I would consider a slab crux and a great route.

One thing I would recommend is only slab climb every other week. I hit it the slab pretty hard last season and now my right big toe is fucked. Pretty much constant pain. If you start feeling pain in the knuckles give it a couple weeks of rest. Wish I had.

StuMM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks, very helpful

St. Vrain has some good slabs too. December wall and Infirmary slabs. Went to the Infirmary slabs last year and Cyberchondrial Paranoia

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cyberchondrial-paranoia/106120541

Is an example of what I am looking for, blank on holds lots of balancy, friction climbing. Thats's some quality granite in that canyon!

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 283

It would be a shame if you didn't venture away form Boulder and hit up some South Platte slab. It's a slab climbers paradise.

So much slab.

Seb303 · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

Bihederal Area, Upper Tier and Rivera down below.

The Scientist in Dream Canyon.

QGrochala · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Just to repeat some sentiments above, bocan is fun and close and short, but I'd head to the platte and park at the base of any dome in elevenmile.

WadeM · · Golden, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 215

Great List Don

I would just add that:
"Days of heaven 10d is a slab crux in between tasty cracks.
Good Evans I would consider a slab crux and a great route."

Days is a crack switch that I wouldnt give a slab rating too and Good Evans crux is a seam/crack boulder problem

Once you start feeling good at 5.10 go hit Big Rock Candy. 5.10 and up cruxes are well protect (practically a bolt ladder in some places) while 5.9 and below is quite the adventure!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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