thank you for your informations, but you do not discuss the merits of repeaters vs. deadly single max crushing hangs. would you for please research this extensively and report back? Nor do you addressing the role of sexual frustration for proper motivation levels for hangboard and spreadsheet.
Friend! You should train for maximum crushing strength with short hangs and long rests. You can either add weight by attaching large boulders to your genitalia or making the hold as thin as a credit card. European climbers have found this to be the best way to channel the sexual frustration into developing the crushing grip power.