Near San Miguel de Allende?


Original Post
James Witowsky · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

My wife and I are going to spends some time driving and camping around Mexico this winter and will be heading to Potrero before going further south. We definitely want to check out Guanajuato and SMdA and were wondering about the sport climbing in that area. Can anyone tell me about it? If it is there, is there a guidebook you'd recommend?
Thanks in advance!
FR

M. Morley · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 6,330

Hey there,

My girlfriend and I are also planning a trip to the area mid-February. I'm interested in checking out Pena de Bernal (multipitch sport), La Bufa (single-pitch), and Aculco (the "Indian Creek of Mexico"). The recommended guidebooks are a 2 volume set (North and Central Mexico) and can be purchased here:

https://rockclimbing-mexico.jimdo.com/gu%C3%ADas-escalada-m%C3%A9xico/

Hope this helps to get you started.

Mike

James Witowsky · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info!

Patrick Vernon · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 910

Its been a while but I spent a year climbing in that area back in 2006-7. La bufa has a lot of good routes, almost all of which are around on the backside of the formation when looking from Guanajuato. My profile pic is of an excellent .12b on La Bufa whose name escapes me. La Bufa had approximately 60 sport routes, pockets with stiffer ratings, Often 1 bolt anchors alot if them shorter. Rock climbing.com was my main guide to these routes, an actual guidebook would be helpfull. The approach is up a steep mountain road shared with cows and views of Guanajuato below you and some ancient silver mines on the left. The climbing on the front of La Bufa is loose and vegitated. The sport climbing is on the better tuft around back. Guanajuato is a must visit city, way more interesting than San Miguel imo.

La Pena is a great visit too, lots of mellow slab climbing, very similar to climbing in the flatirons around Boulder but bolted. Tons of locals out for a stroll below you too and some sketchy summit antics as people climb the via feratta to get to the top. Dont leave Bernal without eating no less than 10 gorditas. I honestly thought the best climbing in Bernal were the random sport routes and excellent bouldering on the smaller blocks on the south side of La Pena.

San Miguel has some basalt crack climbing right next to the city. Not very well developed but worth a visit.

I had several sketchy run ins while hiking in the hills outside of Guanajuato, stay safe. Everyone assumes if you are white you are American (which would greatly aggrivate my european friends living there) and they probably assume you love Trump too nowadays. Thr approach to La Bufa is a pretty popular hike as is La Pena.

Sorry about misspellings, sent from my phone with the smallest font ever.

-Patrick

Edit to add:

Potrero has the best climbing out of all of these places. Definitely get out of there and travel if you want to have more of an authentic experience in Mexico.

krispyyo · · Ventura, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 35

San Miguel is a nice town, I spent a lot of time there 15 years ago. There's some nice climbing to be had not too far from there. Aculco is awesome and was probably my favorite spot, probably 1.5-2 hours from SMA. It's not quite on the level of IC in quantity or quality, but amazing and worth going to. It's very similar to Paradise Forks in AZ.

Pena Bernal is cool too, I never climbed the routes, but did some fun bouldering around the base, and the ladder route to the top is cool.

I never went, but a lot of the locals always were telling me that Jilotepec is super cool.

I'm not sure about any printed guides, but here's a good website to find some info.

http://xpmexico.com/index.php?module=xprock

Be sure to check on the safety situation at some of these spots, they were fine when I was there but I heard some, like Jilotepec, might be sorta sketchy now.

Myself and some other visiting climbers put some routes up in the Botanical Gardens in San Miguel. There's some pretty decent moderate crack lines and some fun bouldering. I posted some info on rc.com back in the day. Here's the link.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Mexico/Guanajuato/El_Charco_Del_Ingenio/

Sadly, last time I was there in '07 the park stopped allowing climbing. Hopefully that's changed now. Have fun!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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