Flight Path Area at Red Rock


Original Post
Leslie McG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 410

Does anyone know the name or grade of the route to the left of the 5.7 corner, Sex in the Scrub Oak? It does not seem to be in the guidebook or here on MP. Thanks in advance.

Nick Hamill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 65

The one that goes up a dihedral to a bolted anchor?
If that's the one, I don't know the name but I remember it seeming like 5.10 / 5.10+. OK rock quality, however there was a fair bit of dirt in the crack and some crumbly rock to consider.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Maybe PM/Text Thomas, he's pretty familiar with that area...
did you end up climbing what you planned sat? or did you go to the flight path area?

Leslie McG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 410
Nick Hamill wrote:The one that goes up a dihedral to a bolted anchor? If that's the one, I don't know the name but I remember it seeming like 5.10 / 5.10+. OK rock quality, however there was a fair bit of dirt in the crack and some crumbly rock to consider.
Yep that's it! The crack looks dirty and I was wondering if it takes gear well or not.Thanks for the information on the grade.
Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,040

Leslie,

I pulled this route description off MP.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/sex-in-the-scrub-oak/105732995

Right of this is a line in red sandstone begun and never finished by Jon Kachi. It's maybe 10+ to the chained anchor under the roof and the rock is pretty soft. We cleaned and cleaned and never got to what I'd say is good rock for Red Rocks. John tried to push it right under and over the rood but never completed it. There are a set of bolt anchors on the slab above the roof John used for inspection and head pointing. I remember we went there 4 or 5 times to try and complete.

A few months later Jon injured his shoulder in a work accident and quit climbing; moved back to California.

The route was never named.

This would be the crack with the pod section leading to some smaller protection before you reach the ledge. John's route is to the left of this route

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/ignore-the-man-behind-the-screen/105732893

I continue to be amazed people name routes established by other climbers. When I led this back when the area was being developed Steve Haase and I found a knotted sling in a crack a previous party had used to rap from; slightly above the present bolt anchors. We left it reported as unknown.

Leslie McG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 410

Thomas, Thank you very much for the information. The route looks interesting and I was wondering about the rock quality and gear. The wall itself is a great place to be in the sun in winter.

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,040

This route is good.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cantilever-corner/105903481

Has a second pitch but the pull down is a rope eater and Hegyes suggested the rap bolts are too shaky to use

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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