Baja Mexico Climbing Info

Original Post
crhaag · · St.George · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 55

Hey there,

Heading to Baja in about 10 days for some general fun that will hopefully include a bit of climbing. Looking for 9's and 10's, and maybe some soft 11's. Wondering if there is much in the region other than what is on MP and what the best way to find out about crags is. Also curious as to how things are for camping etc. Any areas to avoid or precautions to take beyond the common sense of don't leave an ipad sitting on the front seat?

ClimbBaja · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 25

There are very few choices for "developed" areas:

Canyon Tajo is the main climbing area in Baja. 300 routes in the 5.8 to 5.11 range, 1 to 3 pitches. Mostly trad bolted friction. A few nice cracks. Chilly time of year at the 5,000' elevation. Between winter storms, there should be good climbing on the south faces.
Additionally, there are a few routes at a nearby ranch, 5.8 to 5.10, enough for an afternoon of climbing. Also an outdoor climbing wall, artificial holds on a 35' rock cliff, bolted to lead or top-rope (it's on private property near the ranch house and not defiling wilderness). Horseback riding available at reasonable rates. Nice secure camping under the pines. I'm at the ranch and/or Tajo a couple times per month. PM if you want more info.

La Misión (aka: Valle Azteca) is a sport cliff just north of Ensenada. We are currently replacing the 20+ year old carbon steel bolts with new stainless steel hardware.

There is some new development on crags near Tecate. Several routes but no guidebook as yet.

Most everything else in Baja is a scattering of a few routes here and there.

crhaag · · St.George · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 55

Thanks for the intel. So it looks like most of the climbing is relatively North? We're coming down in a Prius, is that going to be limiting?

ClimbBaja · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 25

When are you departing for Baja?
There is a winter storm about to hit tonight, clearing Sunday. Might dump a few inches of snow at Canyon Tajo. Most likely melted by Wednesday morning when I head down there.
20 miles of dirt road is a tough call with a Prius. If you really want to try it, send an e-mail for my phone number. ClimbBaja{at}aol[dot]com

La Misión is an option for sport routes.
Cataviña for exploring big boulders, 300 miles south of the border.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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