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Hyalite Canyon Top Rope Access

Original Post
Chris D. · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

Was hoping someone might be able to provide color on the extent of the top rope access in Hyalite Canyon. Specifically, are there enough top rope climbs to keep one busy for a week or so?

Additionally, would appreciate a good guidebook rec?


Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,109

There are only a few places that would be relatively "easy" to set up a top rope, but a weeks worth? Tall order.

"Winter Dance" by Joe Josephson is the best guide for Hyalite.

Mike-Mayhem · · Bozeman. MT · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 60

so many areas that you would be able to set up top ropes or have people tag your rope up would be on mountain project. You could easily spend a couple days top roping the G1 area (if facing the main trail at the parking lot, the trail to G1 is to your left) as well as the dry tool routes to the right of the ice. There is also lower green sleeves which is top rope accessible.

That being said, there are a couple climbs above G1 ( G2 and Hangover) that you cant quite set up top ropes on, but they are very popular. I am sure you could get someone to set it up for you. For G2 a 70 M rope will just barely allow a top rope from the tree at the top. Hangover you would need to have the rope set up at the first anchor (tree on the right before the final ice step).

If you follow the main trail,this will eventually lead you to the amphitheater. I believe it is possible to set up a top rope on both of them, fat chance is on the left and thin chance on the right. If you follow the trail to lookers left of the climbs and eventually cut to the right, you could possibly be on top of them. I have never done this, but it seems it could be done. These are also 2 popular routes, so im sure you wouldn't have a problem with someone tagging your rope up.

The mummy area is probably the last area that you could potentially top rope. Follow the trail to the lookers left of the amphitheater up the hill until you eventually reach a trail with the contours. If you go left, this will bring you to Mummy 2 and Scepter. Scepter is an awesome WI 5 and is top rope able if you can get someone to tag your rope. if you were to go right at the T, feeding the cat is located all the way down the trail (2 mins). If you get someone to tag your rope, it is a great WI 3+.

In all it may be a pain in the ass to only be able to top rope climbs in hyalite, but it is do able.

Im sure other people will probably have even better suggestions than this. Have fun on your trip!

Jeff J · · Bozeman · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

So to add to what Mike Mayhem said.
From the corner climbs aka amphitheater, from "Fat Chance" head left up along the cliff band, about 150 feet (more or less) is a runnel filled with moss. Its maybe a 5.2 scramble for 20 feet to the top. From there walk to the top of Fat and Thin chance to set up top ropes.

When you get to the mummy II area. From Mummy II head climber's right around the cliff, follow a gully up hill (there maybe a trail depending on snow) that will lead to the top of Mummy II there is chain anchors and Scepter can to reached as well.

Across the canyon is the Unnamed Wall. Head left from bingo world and find a "The Fat One" there is enough traffic that some one will be happy to tail a rope up. A 70m and a long cordelette will do the trick. Or possibly an 80m to the large tree. There is a small tree on the left that a 70 will reach.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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