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Best crack climbs at the Gunks?


Original Post
Ben Hoste · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 431

The Gunks are known for the roofs, but I'm curious what are people's favorite crack climbs at the Gunks (of any difficulty).

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Uhhhh???

sara pax · · western mass · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 208

Low exposure

Tony Sartin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 205

Super Crack, Kligfield's Follies, Foops, True Grip in one long pitch to the top, 0pen Cockpit (supposedly named after a local hardwoman of the time), No Comment, Harvest Moon, Persistence, Resistence, Cars That Eat People, White Rose, Double Crack, Ants Line, Bonnie's Roof in one long pitch with the direct finish, P38, No Exit.

Daniel Affsprung · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 65

Ken's anyone? also, something interesting, Sonja (mentioned even though I don't find it that good, its probably the purest crack line). Raunchy and its neighbors are all good, and involve jamming,

SpencerB BB · · Pasadena, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 79

Of the stuff I have climbed, I think the ~5.8 crack in the area with a bunch of moderates at lost city wins

ChapelPondGirl · · Keene, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

Resistance wins, hands down for me. It's short for the crack section, bit those finger locks and technical toe jams are really amazing. Harvest Moon is good, but can easily be climbed as a face climb. In fact, the easiest way to do it is to use the face holds and plug gear in the crack. try doing that with nothing but ringlocks. Probably harder than 11a.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745
SpencerB wrote:Of the stuff I have climbed, I think the ~5.8 crack in the area with a bunch of moderates at lost city wins
For people who've never seen it:

5.8 at LC.

There are other worthwhile cracks at Lost City, most notably Lost City Crack (10a). You can add Golden Dream (9+) and Pumped (8+) at Peterskill to the list.
Matt Carroll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 35

Ken's is cool

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 252

Don't forget Coex. Or is that a face climb?

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411

The best Gunks cracks are in the Adirondacks.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745
Kevin Heckeler wrote:The best Gunks cracks are in the Adirondacks.
Seriously. If anyone wants to polish their crack technique, Lost T, New Buck Mt, and Starbuck are not that far away. There's prolly a bunch of pure cracks on Crane Mt too but I just don't know it that well.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Tony Sartin wrote:Super Crack, Kligfield's Follies, Foops, True Grip in one long pitch to the top, 0pen Cockpit (supposedly named after a local hardwoman of the time), No Comment, Harvest Moon, Persistence, Resistence, Cars That Eat People, White Rose, Double Crack, Ants Line, Bonnie's Roof in one long pitch with the direct finish, P38, No Exit.
It's a real stretch to call a lot of those "crack climbs" - a lot of them don't have a single required jam of any kind.
Mike Hazard · · Ballston Lake, NY · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 175

Easter Time Too (Nears) is a really nice line although the crack is short it is the crux and has great jams.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 755
Tony Sartin wrote:Super Crack, Kligfield's Follies, Foops, True Grip in one long pitch to the top, 0pen Cockpit (supposedly named after a local hardwoman of the time), No Comment, Harvest Moon, Persistence, Resistence, Cars That Eat People, White Rose, Double Crack, Ants Line, Bonnie's Roof in one long pitch with the direct finish, P38, No Exit.
Tony!
I remember when .might of been on Bonnie's Direct?, with ?,,, .
Hope your still crushing
. Good list!

(Staying out of the fray, just off the edge Uberfall zone
This climb has a temperature change, thing to think about .
depending on the season the climb that brian9 mentions; with the crack at the top

BIG CHIMNEY linked with MISS BAILEY'S stout 5.6 R?
Climb main face left out to the crack, through the overhang.
,(*1 Long pitch, little , thin pro , long 3rd class to step across)
(1st,pitch,optional, base of chimney)
long slings long runout outs on easy ground gear where you need it,
this must have changed with modern micro cams(?)
wonderwoman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 84

Just off the top of my head:

Ken's Crack
Double Crack
Easter Time Too
Lost City Crack
P1 of Carbs & Caffeine
Laurel

Brian Shaffer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 40

Top part of silhouette is fun.

No one mentioned any of the great offwidth moves!!!! On that note does big chimney count? Chimneys are big cracks.

George Bracksieck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 1,270

Ringwraith is an excellent, continuous hand crack. At 10-, it's overrated, probably because most Gunkies are unfamiliar with crack climbing.

Caz Drach · · Sugarhouse, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310
Kevin Heckeler wrote:The best Gunks cracks are in the Adirondacks.
^Truth spoken
ChapelPondGirl · · Keene, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

Ringwraith has been inaccessible to climbers since about 1994. That's 22 years to you and me folks.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Just off the top of my head:
Ken's Crack
Double Crack
Easter Time Too
Lost City Crack
P1 of Carbs & Caffeine
Laurel

Only one of those requires actual crack climbing technique, and only for a couple of moves. That's the real problem with the Gunks version of "crack climbs" - they mostly aren't.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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