Routes to practice aid climbing in Red Rocks?


Original Post
jkd159 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0

Looking for recommendations for 2 or 3 pitch routes that are good for practicing aid climbing. Looking to start with easy C1 stuff. Just a chance to stand in etriers and place gear. Won't be hooking or hauling. Obviously we don't want to tie up a popular climb.

Thanks!

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

There's a bolt ladder in Moderate Mecca. There's no gear placements, and it's a single pitch, but it does let you practice some of the other stuff.

jkd159 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0

That would be a good place to start. I recall there are some decent single pitch climbs in that area which could be aided. Where is the bolt ladder? Is it a named climb, or just on some random section of rock?

Thanks

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

I'm not sure but I think it's called 'not so smart' or something along those lines
If you go to the muckraker/abbey road area and go up(back) toward the corner under the giant roof you'll see the bolts.

jkd159 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0

Got it. Thanks

Earl · · Korea, Osan AB · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 30

You could always aid up Straight Shooter
I've used it to teach aid climbing for my classes.

jkd159 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0

Yeah, I was thinking about straight shooter. Something like that climb, but maybe a little less popular.

On the other hand, I've climbed it three or four times and never seen another party there. So I'm sure we could aid up it without impacting anyone's day. And aiding would go faster than leading since I always spend five minutes staring at the crux move before committing :)

Matt Kuehl · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,425

If you go to the bolt ladder bring rivet hangers or stoppers you can slide down to use the wire loops. Not all bolts. Maybe check out Plan F in Willow if you are looking for a vertical C1 line. Risk brothers Roof isn't usually busy and would a good way to dial in aiding and cleaning a roof if you're into that. Beware the rope can push in cams. Also Zion is close. Have fun

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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