Good Winter Climbs?


Original Post
yosem1te · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15

Hey everyone,

I'm going to be in a California for a few weeks in December and was wondering if anyone can recommend any good winter climbs in the sierras. I'm ideally looking for single axe routes without crazy approaches due to the little time I'll have. I've had trouble finding routes that aren't too technical and have the roads leading to them still open. Love to here your recommendations.

Sam Bedell · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 354

Where will you be in the Sierra? Bishop? Tahoe?

Danny · · brooklyn, ny · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Hey Yosem1te - Where are you staying and where you trying to go?

I'm in Fresno staying on a couch until Dec 6 and looking for a climbing partner for Yosemite. I lead sport and trad and am equipped. Would you like to partner up? Hit me up at 914-262-1930 if so.

Danny

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 516

"Easy" Sierra/CA Winter mountaineering objectives
Obviously these are very condition dependent. December can be a bit wonky in the Sierras.

- NW ridge of Mt. Morrison, - easily done in a day, zero approach. Class 3
- Mt Whitney, mountaineers route - 2 days if there is not too much snow, Class 3
- Mt Shasta, Casaval ridge - 2 days, class 3
- Mt LeConte, 'Waterfall" route - 1-2 days. Watch for avy danger, class 4 low 5th
- Mt Langley, NE Couloir via. Tuttle creek. Can be done in a day, class 3
- Matterhorn Peak, E Couloir and E ridge. 1-2 days
- Lone Pine Peak, N ridge or the Winter route. 1-2 days, 5th class

Some suggestions for winter rock climbing in CA
-Tollhouse (Fresno)
-Kernville
-J-tree
-Owens River Gorge (Bishop)
-Alabama Hills (Lone Pine)
-New Jack City (Barstow)
-Pinnacles (Coast)

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Good list from Mr. Brooks but many of those times are REALLY agressive. Mt. Langley from Tuttle Creek has significant gain and is usually done in 2-3 days in the spring. Matterhorn Peak in a day in winter is pretty fast as well. Mt. Morrison is close to the road but be mindful that the area around there/Convict Lake is pretty avy prone.

The Winter Route on the S. Face of Langley looks nice. I've heard good things about the N. Face of Mt. Carson, near June Lake. Both of those are more technical though, so probably not ehat you're looking for. The Tahoe area probably has pretty good bang for the buck.

Sam Bedell · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 354

That's pretty funny. I was thinking that Mr. Brook's times were on the slow side. Casaval Ridge I've done in one short day, but then again that was with skis... guess if you insist on slow shoeing or worse, wallowing, you could conceivably turn any of those into a full-on expedition.

Yosem1te,

If you're looking for something more accessible from the Central Valley and closer to the road and shorter overall you might consider stuff like:

-Castle Peak off of I-80 on Donner Pass
-Round Top near Kirkwood ski area on 88
-Mt. Rose via the E Ridge starting down low on Mt. Rose Highway

None of those are super classic High Sierra peaks, but they avoid driving down the east side of the range and are still quite scenic half-day to full-day adventures.

James Jaco · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 30

Anyone know the current conditions at Tollhouse? I just acquired my trad rack and am eager to finally get some multi-pitch trad routes under my belt. Tollhouse looks like a cool area, but I'm unfamiliar with it. Any help is appreciated.

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 516

You can climb at Tollhouse pretty much all winter. If it rains/snows (like its supposed to on Thursday) Give it a few days to dry and you should be good to go.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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