Aid Practice


Original Post
Daniel Bologna · · Ypsilanti, MI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 120

Me and my climbing partner are considering heading to the Red next weekend, and we are hoping to get in some practice aiding on some easy cracks. Are there specific rules in regards to that in the area? I haven't been able to find too much.Thanks!

Matt Stroebel · · Lakewood, OH · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40

Aiding isn't allowed in Muir Valley. Where are you thinking of climbing, that may impact people's perception/opinion.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

climbing friend,

if you are to hate climbing, have too much time of free, and would like to fiddle with your nuts n gear, this is an excellent idea most.

Daniel Bologna · · Ypsilanti, MI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 120

Mostly leaning towards running around in the North. Not opposed to going further afield if necessary.

apoet · · AZ · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 183

Why don't they allow clean aid climbing? Seems kind of arbitrary.

will ar · · San Antonio, TX · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 215
Daniel Bologna wrote:Me and my climbing partner are considering heading to the Red next weekend, and we are hoping to get in some practice aiding on some easy cracks. Are there specific rules in regards to that in the area? I haven't been able to find too much.Thanks!
It usually goes without saying, but clean climbing only and even hooks (particularly on sandstone) can damage the rock. How crowded is it in the red this time of year? Aiding, especially if learning, is much slower than free climbing. Stick to less popular or obscure routes as hanging out on a 5 star moderate for a couple hours is pretty inconsiderate of others who may want to climb.
Daniel Bologna · · Ypsilanti, MI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 120

Absolutely clean aid practice on less-traveled routes. I am more just looking for guidance on where aiding is or isn't allowed at all.

Matt Stroebel · · Lakewood, OH · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40

If you stick to 1-2 star routes in the north gorge I think you will be fine. Most places with trad in the north are away from the popular areas and they don't see a lot of traffic, especially not in December.

Be careful, the rock is soft, my partner fell on a well placed cam a few years ago and ended up removing a head sized piece of rock from the wall.

apoet wrote:Why don't they allow clean aid climbing? Seems kind of arbitrary.
Muir Valley is owned by the Friends of Muir Valley. They have more rules than public land. Also it's mostly classic jug hauls that see an insane amount of traffic and people waiting around, so it does make sense to keep people from clogging up routes for extended amounts of time.
Daniel Bologna · · Ypsilanti, MI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 120
Matt Stroebel wrote:If you stick to 1-2 star routes in the north gorge I think you will be fine. Most places with trad in the north are away from the popular areas and they don't see a lot of traffic, especially not in December. Be careful, the rock is soft, my partner fell on a well placed cam a few years ago and ended up removing a head sized piece of rock from the wall...
Perfect, thanks! I appreciate the info.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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