The deadly ATC


Original Post
Aleks Zebastian · Nov 29, 2016 · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0
climbing friend,

much like the PAS thong, do not be utilizing the deadly ATC.

http://www.climbing.com/news/unbelayvable-a-missed-catch/

"Use an assisted braking belay device.

Even if you follow all the previous points, something could happen to your belayer. The outdoors are unpredictable. Things can go wrong. Assisted braking belay devices, such as the Grigri, add an extra measure of security in those scenarios. If your belayer is knocked out by rock fall while using a tube-style belay device, you are off belay. If they're using an assisted-braking device, though they are not designed to be used hands-free, it may still lock up and hold the rope. Insist that your partner use an assisted-braking device to stack the deck in your favor."

Ted Pinson · Nov 29, 2016 · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 40
Beat you to it, AND I even referenced you. ;)
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/60-ground-fall-belayer-drop/112356131

George Wu · Nov 29, 2016 · Newport Beach, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 67
GriGri's have their own issues, or rather, belayers using GriGri's seem to be more likely to not have good solid belaying technique. It's important to ask, do we see more climbers decking when an ATC is in use versus a GriGri?

Anecdotal evidence is not a substitute for statistical studies.

T Roper · Nov 29, 2016 · DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 730
Honnold

Buff Johnson · Nov 29, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 545
The plueral of anecdote is not data.

But please, continue with the popularity contest.

Aleks Zebastian · Nov 30, 2016 · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0
climbing friend,

you may use assisted braking device with someone who is not, how you say, "asshat," and you would be practicing the maximum safety!

rging · Nov 30, 2016 · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 25
They have airbags for cyclists and skiers. Time to get them for climbers.

Aleks Zebastian · Nov 30, 2016 · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0
climbing friend,

do you perhaps utilize the PAS thong?

Fueco · Dec 1, 2016 · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 256
rging wrote:They have airbags for cyclists and skiers. Time to get them for climbers.
There are plenty of airbags in the online forums... Especially where it comes to preaching about the gear they prefer.

Stich · Dec 1, 2016 · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,230
Fueco wrote: There are plenty of airbags in the online forums... Especially where it comes to preaching about the gear they prefer.
Bada-bing!

Ken Noyce · Dec 1, 2016 · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,017
George Wu wrote:GriGri's have their own issues, or rather, belayers using GriGri's seem to be more likely to not have good solid belaying technique. It's important to ask, do we see more climbers decking when an ATC is in use versus a GriGri? Anecdotal evidence is not a substitute for statistical studies.
Not going to take the time to look it up, but I believe that both Jim Titt and Bearbreader have posted numberous links to data by the DAV in Germany which shows that there is a much higher accident rate with an ATC vs a GriGri.

Tom Sherman · Dec 1, 2016 · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 81
they have airbags for cyclists?

Matt Stroebel · Dec 1, 2016 · Lakewood, OH · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40
I heard that before dropping her, he said "Hands up, no belay" in protest of the archaic ATC being thrust upon him by an older generation of white male climbers who insist on returning to the dark days of the hip belay.

Jake Jones · Dec 1, 2016 · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 763
Tom Sherman wrote:they have airbags for cyclists?
Yep. There's an airbag helmet.

Buff Johnson · Dec 1, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 545
Fashions as a neck warmer, too

Jake wander · Dec 1, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5
Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend, much like the PAS thong, do not be utilizing the deadly ATC. climbing.com/news/unbelayva... "Use an assisted braking belay device. Even if you follow all the previous points, something could happen to your belayer. The outdoors are unpredictable. Things can go wrong. Assisted braking belay devices, such as the Grigri, add an extra measure of security in those scenarios. If your belayer is knocked out by rock fall while using a tube-style belay device, you are off belay. If they're using an assisted-braking device, though they are not designed to be used hands-free, it may still lock up and hold the rope. Insist that your partner use an assisted-braking device to stack the deck in your favor."
im disappointed. this post didnt come off nearly as... ethnic? as your normal post. we need more talk of the climbing rocks and neck meat.

rging · Dec 1, 2016 · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 25
Fueco wrote: There are plenty of airbags in the online forums... Especially where it comes to preaching about the gear they prefer.
I don't often laugh out loud but when I do it's almost always caused by a MP thread gone wild.

rging · Dec 1, 2016 · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 25
Jake Jones wrote: Yep. There's an airbag helmet.
You don't know about the Hoveding? Then you are missing out on what will surely be the next big thing in climbing. We will all look back on the days where it was possible to get hurt with great awe.

Helmets for cool people only

George Wu · Dec 1, 2016 · Newport Beach, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 67
kennoyce wrote: Not going to take the time to look it up, but I believe that both Jim Titt and Bearbreader have posted numberous links to data by the DAV in Germany which shows that there is a much higher accident rate with an ATC vs a GriGri.
Hmm, thanks! That's actually good to know.

Nathanael · Dec 1, 2016 · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 196
kennoyce wrote: Not going to take the time to look it up, but I believe that both Jim Titt and Bearbreader have posted numberous links to data by the DAV in Germany which shows that there is a much higher accident rate with an ATC vs a GriGri.
Yea but that same data showed the lowest accident rate for belaying with a Munter so...

Ted Pinson · Dec 1, 2016 · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 40
Of course. How many newbs do you know use a munter?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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