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Midwest Ice Conditions-16/17 season


Burt Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 3,275

Hoping to get an status photo posted on FB sometime tomorrow afternoon for Wyalusing quarry by Todd. I will post up here afterwards.

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,052

I went to The Gov on Friday night:

Cox Hollow Left - Thin and running hard, but close. I got halfway up and backed off because of a hole I couldn't see from below.

Cox Hollow Right - Climbable, but thin and wet. I got up it.

Stephens' Falls Left - Not even close.

Stephens' Falls Right Wall - Climbable. I backed off the left side of the right wall, but that was way more about me not being mentally ready (my left crampon came off on after the first move and I decided that if I couldn't put my crampons on securely, then I shouldn't be soloing) than the ice.

Overall, I'm sure by midweek this week it will be rad over there. We're supposed to get some more cold after today and then a warming to near the freezing level - ideal.

Juggler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,090

Today at SRSP-- Wildcat, almost ready....if it does not warm up too much!

Wildcat-SRSP 2016
Gokul · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,536
Ice on road-cuts in Grant County, WI. This is about 50-60' of WI4.

Snapped this quickie from my car, driving down Hwy 151 in WI.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Juggler wrote:Today at SRSP-- Wildcat, almost ready....if it does not warm up too much!
wow,,,that wss fast to form. Maybe we hit it mid week?
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Gokul wrote: Snapped this quickie from my car, driving down Hwy 151 in WI.
Sweet looking! Is this a regular forming chunk of ice or newly discovered? As a roadcut, is it allowed to use for climbing or would Wisconsin Highway Dept. look negatively at some activity on it? Anybody done it in the past, with a name or history on it? (before I even check Wisc.-Midwest ice for s post.)
SThal · · Logan, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 140

Any news on the drainpipe in Eau Claire?

Craig Braun · · Eau Claire · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

The drain pipe in EC is not in yet, very thin and fragile. The dripping has slowed way down with the cold weather. Hopefully with the warm up it will start again.
The ice by the dam is in, but the tallest climb is maybe 25ft.

Juggler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,090

Wyalusing is in good...

2016 Wyalusing-Monster

Right side-2016
Burt Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 3,275

Quarry Monster looking good! Any pics of the quarry right side Juggler?
Anybody want to me at Wyalusing this coming Friday?

Mikeyy · · Glendale Heights, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 110
Burt Lindquist wrote:Quarry Monster looking good! Any pics of the quarry right side Juggler? Anybody want to me at Wyalusing this coming Friday?
I'm off Friday looking to climb! Newer ice climber
Juggler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,090
Mikeyy wrote: I'm off Friday looking to climb! Newer ice climber
Mike, we are trying for SRSP on Friday...
Mikeyy · · Glendale Heights, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 110

Totally down for Starved Rock! I wanted to go there before taking the longer drive to Wyalusing from Chicago but either would be good.

Will Schira · · Madison, WI · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 20

Couple pics from Stephen's Falls Saturday morning

falls right

falls right
Gokul · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,536
Woodchuck ATC wrote: Sweet looking! Is this a regular forming chunk of ice or newly discovered? As a roadcut, is it allowed to use for climbing or would Wisconsin Highway Dept. look negatively at some activity on it? Anybody done it in the past, with a name or history on it? (before I even check Wisc.-Midwest ice for s post.)
It forms once every few years, when it's a good Winter. Last time I was climbing, a state tropper pulled over and had a chat with us and spent about 20 minutes parked beside us making phone calls. In the end, he couldn't find any reason to stop us so he left after telling us that walking on the highway would be illegal so we'd have to stay on the other side of the guard rail. Also, one of the students at the university called the Sheriff's office before we went out to check on the legality, and they couldn't find anything in the books either, so they said it was okay.

That was the second time a state trooper saw me on roadcut ice, and didn't stop me from climbing. But both incidents were over two years ago, so I don't know if things have changed.

Documented here: mountainproject.com/v/south…
Juggler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,090

UPDATE SRSP:

UPDATE: the park is not going to allow any climbing this week. the water is still flowing too heavy according to the Naturalist....they will NOT put out the sign in sheets... and it's only going to get warmer.... ;(

Mikeyy · · Glendale Heights, IL · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 110
Juggler wrote:UPDATE SRSP: UPDATE: the park is not going to allow any climbing this week. the water is still flowing too heavy according to the Naturalist....they will NOT put out the sign in sheets... and it's only going to get warmer.... ;(
:(
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110

Note: I'm pretty sure I'm heading down on Friday morning anyway, with my 35 years of ice records, details, pics and discussion points to share with current Supt., then hike the trails and recon the ice in canyons, take pics and hope to post up later that night. But sounds like the new decisions on ice being open are being made once again by the park, and not the ice climbers as we had with past superintendent. Will see what develops and report back on it hopefully during holiday week. Either way, it sounds like the rain and upper 40's of Sunday, Monday will probably ruin what was just getting ready to use. Tomorrow and Friday would have been sweet climbing days I'm sure, if they had allowed it. Since when do we care if we get wet from some running water on the back side of it? Best part of season is climbing those falls in late March or early April when they are flowing madly with meltwater.!!...head first through the gusher, head to toe in gore-tex was always part of the fun there !!!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Gokul wrote: It forms once every few years, when it's a good Winter. Last time I was climbing, a state tropper pulled over and had a chat with us and spent about 20 minutes parked beside us making phone calls. In the end, he couldn't find any reason to stop us so he left after telling us that walking on the highway would be illegal so we'd have to stay on the other side of the fence. Also, one of the students at the university called the Sheriff's office before we went out to check on the legality, and they couldn't find anything in the books either, so they said it was okay. That was the second time a state trooper saw me on roadcut ice, and didn't stop me from climbing. But both incidents were over two years ago, so I don't know if things have changed. Documented here: mountainproject.com/v/south…
If that's so...that's a sweet deal! I know that IL DOT would be all over us if we had some ice...cuz there is nothing fun outdoors allowed in IL without a ticket against you being part of it. Nice to know it could be a possibility in Wisconsin to do roadside ice. Will have to check out that spot next time driving up that way.
jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,144

https://www.facebook.com/StarvedRock/?hc_ref=NEWSFEED

Current SRSP pics from the visitor centers FB feed. A formed (but thin on top and WET) Wildcat and an unformed Tonti.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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