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second set of ice tools


Original Post
wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Looking for a second set of ice tools. Right now I have a set of quarks )new style) which work well for just about everything. The wife has been starting to follow me on some multi pitch stuff and borrowing a second set of tools for her is a bit of a pain.

Rather than getting a second set of similar or identical tools for her I'm thinking about getting something just different enough not to be a duplicate so tools like the viper are out.

Ideally it would be something she can use for following, while also giving me something else to use to diversify my quiver.

Right now I lead WI 3 and follow 5 or 6. Something that would give me a slight edge in steeper ground would be nice since I'm hoping to get more comfortable leading steeper ground.

Thinking of either the Nomics or Cobras. The Nomic is obviously made for steeper ground but the Cobras seem to work well on the bullet hard ice we get in Minnesota and Ontario where I usually climb, but the downside is it's another alpine tool like the quark.

You're thoughts?

Scot Hastings · · Las Vegas · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

I was in a similar boat and picked up a pair of Cassin X-Dreams in addition to a pair of Quarks.

This setup gives the two of us a ton of options. For ice cragging, we each get to choose the tool we want to climb with. For multipitch, the leader gets the most appropriate tools and the second makes do with the others. It's awesome to have variety.

Whether you go with the Nomics, X-Dreams, some crazy Grivel something, etc. is largely a matter of preference and what you want to go after. I highly recommend getting something different, though. IMO, the Cobras are not sufficiently different from the Quarks to justify the purchase.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745

I suspect that if you have the chance to climb with Trango Raptors, you'll buy a pair. They're THAT good.

Ben Stabley · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 171

I just bought a 2nd pair myself. Having the quarks first, I decided to get a set of nomics so that I could share picks and other head accessories between them.

Theriault · · Quebec, Quebec · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 313

check te tread about the tech machine... prob all the info you want

Theriault · · Quebec, Quebec · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 313

or save some time and just get some x dreams

William Kramer · · Kemmerer, WY · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 810

+1 Trango Raptors

I was really surprised by how well the Trango Raptors perform. My usual primary tools are X-All Mts, which are great when the ice is nice and elastic, but if the ice is hard and brittle, my sons Raptors perform far better.

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,135

What other types of ice do you do? The Quarks are great all round tools so you are covered there. If you are really going to go more into the vert I would say look at the Nomics as the picks for the Quarks are the same. I have multiple sets BD tools but all of my picks are interchangeable with them. So it cuts down on the picks, heads, adzes, etc. needed.

NorCalNomad · · San Francisco · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 105

Nomics will definitely give you the added benefit of sharing parts with the quarks. In addition to being fantastic tools as well.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

In terms of other ice I occasionally get on alpine ice. If my wife goes we usually take a quark and
Sum tec so the new tools wouldn't be used there. I do some mixed and dry tool but only follow that.
So right now the primary use would be on vertical water ice.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Ended up doing the nomics since i can share picks and other accessories.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Argh.. First Quarks then Nomics? That sounds like getting kicked in the balls, picking yourself off the floor and saying "Sir! Can I please have other!?!" Be sure to google detuning Petzl picks.

My vote would've been Grivel Tech Machines or Trango Raptors.. Those Nomics do take a beating and keep on keeping on though :)

shoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 75
wfscot wrote: It's awesome to have variety. Whether you go with the Nomics, X-Dreams, some crazy Grivel something, etc. is largely a matter of preference and what you want to go after. I highly recommend getting something different, though. IMO, the Cobras are not sufficiently different from the Quarks to justify the purchase.
This is the only answer you need to read in the thread. Everyone likes what they like. Pick a tool that expands what you can do.
Theriault · · Quebec, Quebec · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 313
wisam wrote:Ended up doing the nomics since i can share picks and other accessories.
now sell the Quark , you are probably just gonna stop using them.... and next year sell the Nomics too and get some xdreams , the cycle will be completed ! you will understand in time my friend !
wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Lot of fans of the x dreams! Got a friend who just picked up a
Set. I'll have to borrow his some time soon to try then for myself.

Theriault · · Quebec, Quebec · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 313
wisam wrote:Lot of fans of the x dreams! Got a friend who just picked up a Set. I'll have to borrow his some time soon to try then for myself.
definitely gonna make you climb 2 grades harder !
NorCalNomad · · San Francisco · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 105
Theriault wrote: definitely gonna make you climb 2 grades harder !
Just like ultra light cams and biners will make you send harder rock grades by 3 numbers.
Theriault · · Quebec, Quebec · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 313
NorCalNomad Blank wrote: Just like ultra light cams and biners will make you send harder rock grades by 3 numbers.
exactly !!!!
Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 385

I have a set of Nomics and X-dreams...so comparing them: The Nomics climb WI2/3 better than the X-dreams. The X-dreams feel like you have to swing down not in, because of how aggressive the tool is. I notice it most on rolling WI3 terrain. Not that it won't work but the Nomic is just better in that terrain. I only lead WI4 and I can't really tell too much difference between the tools on that grade. The Nomic has a weighted head which makes it heavier. TR'ing WI5 seems to be a wash between the tools for me. Where the X-dream shines is on mixed terrain. I have done a fair amount of drytooling (mostly to train for ice) and the X-dream is just way better than the Nomic. I like the angle better, it is lighter, and the handles feel more comfortable for long periods.

Side note: I have a friend with really big hands and the Nomic's handles are just too small for him. He climbs on the X-dreams just fine though.

You might check out Raf's review here too. He has definitely been around the block a few times and put in some serious time on the tools. thealpinestart.com/2015/04/…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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