Best Multi Pitch Trad (Crack) Routes in Wasatch


Original Post
Caz Drach · · Sugarhouse, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Title says it all. Looking for the best multipitch trad and or crack routes in the SLC area.

Dont mind a bolt or two, but want to see whats around that isnt a multi pitch sport route

Thanks for your suggestions.

-Z

BJB · · Texas · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 195

Arm and Hammer in Bell's Canyon is the first that comes to my mind. The approach hike is a bit long, but it goes through beautiful Bell's Canyon. The "Zion Flake" pitch is one of the coolest and spookiest pitches I have done anywhere, and the pendulums were the first pendulums I ever did. It also gives you an option of grade--if you want to do 5.11, don't do the pendulums, if you want to keep the grade around 10(a) do the pendulum.

The Dorsal Fin in Little Cottonwood Canyon is also a contender. The crux pitch is face climbing, but it is the most memorable pitch I have ever done. Very, very scary, but doable and will stay with you forever. The remaining pitches are crack (if I'm remembering it right) and they are full of cool old gear because the first ascent was done in the 70's I believe. The location is also really neat (you are climbing the Church's vault).

High Dive in Big Cottonwood is also cool. But it is on quartzite so it is not pure crack and gear placement is tricky.

The School Room in Little Cottonwood also has several multipitch crack climbs that are pretty easy. Also, off the top of my head, I think the Crescent Crack in Little Cottonwood was multiple pitches.

Honorable mention goes to Penta pitch (incorporating the Sasquawtch Crack) in Little Cottonwood Canyon. It may be more of what you're looking for as it is more pure crack.

I also did Stiffler's Mom, but it was also kind of a mix of crack and face, and not as memorable as those mentioned above.

Really, you should probably just check out the 50 Mountain Project classics for Little Cottonwood. Most of those will be multi-pitch crack climbs, and that will be the greatest concentration of them in the Wasatch Range.

Tristan Higbee · · Ogden, UT · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970

You didn't say what grade you're looking for, but Outside Corner (5.7) gets my vote as the single best moderate, multi-pitch trad route in the Wasatch.

tradvlad · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

So many!
BJB mentioned a bunch, here are more to tack on:
Bushwhack crack, original, or link it up with The Hook, just above it. After The Hook you can do another 5.7 crack pitch.
Crack in the Woods and Hand Jive
Satans corner (a lot of climbers do it in 1 long pitch, I prefer to do it in 2)
Beckys wall + variations
etc.

Caz Drach · · Sugarhouse, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Anything upto 5.11 +, could be game for 5.12-

tradvlad · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

Everything I have mentioned is way below that.

kalockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 190

Anything in the Lone Peak Cirque. Vertical Smile, Triple Overhangs, Hyperform, Center Thumb, etc.

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,135

Closest and greatest concentration of longer routes in LCC would be the Thumb: mountainproject.com/v/the-t…

Furtherest and best concentration of routes would be Lone Peak Cirque: mountainproject.com/v/lone-…

Tom Hore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 160

Out of the Question

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

MP has a search function for this:

http://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Classics.php?id=105739213&type=trad

BJB · · Texas · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 195

You said that you are up for leading in the 5.12's, and if that is the case, you could do the two pitch version of the Coffin in Little Cottonwood. Pitch 1 is a great 5.9 finger crack, and Pitch 2 is a stunning 5.12 roof of thing fingers. Or so I've been told. I have never done the second pitch, only gazed at it longingly from the chains of P1.

tanner jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 210

for my money, i think doing crescent crack to the direct finish and then ending on the final link is one of the best multi-pitch endeavors one could have. it has it all: hand jams, bulges, off width, pin scars, chimney moves, and then finishes on a beautiful slab with chicken heads, run outs, and beautiful views. plus you can rap down to the bottom of coffin crack. after sending that, you'll have plenty of time to do a burn on mexican crack and/or tick fever.

having said that, the dorsal fin is one of the best prizes in the canyon, in my humble opinion. however i wouldn't try it until you've cut your teeth on a few of the easier slab climbs (i.e. the aforementioned final link).

drewford · · Wasatch Back, UT · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 410

Arm and Hammer, Dorsal Fin, S-Crack to Nob Job, Out of the Question, P-38. Stiffler's Mom....meh.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 713

C'mon he said crack routes guys. Get with it!

West Wind Butress (practically the thumb): Expect No Mercy (3 pitches) 10d ***
Thumb: Coyne Crack to S Crack (4 pitches) 11d ****
Middle Bell Tower: Tonic Immobility (5 pitches) 11c ***
MBT: Regge Pole (5 pitches) 10d *
Dihedrals: Half a finger to Hornets rest (2 pitches) 5.9 ****
Green A: The Green A (3 pitches) 5.9 ***
Hogum: Hogums Heros (6 pitches) 5.11b ****
Hogum: Cloud Wall (3 pitches) 5.10 ***

tanner jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 210
D-Roc wrote:Title says it all. Looking for the best multipitch trad and or crack routes in the SLC area. Dont mind a bolt or two, but want to see whats around that isnt a multi pitch sport route Thanks for your suggestions. -Z
and or says OP. and or ^^
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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