struggling to top out over a roof


Original Post
Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

I've been primarily working on overhung bouldering routes for the past 2ish months. I can pretty much flash all the V3's at my gym, and a few V4's. Even on overhung routes, I can do the V4's where you come out from under the roof and keep climbing straight up. But there is one that I am just stuck on. It requires 3 consecutive heel hooks and then you come out from under the roof and need to top out with only 1 hand hold on top of the mushroom.
I'm sure it's a matter of footwork on top of just brute strength to pull myself over, but it's something I'm just completely stuck on no matter how many people I watch and talk to about it.

What kind of techniques or training would you recommend for mushroom top outs?

Matt Carroll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 5

This page has good info about getting high on the mushroom route

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psilocybin_mushroom

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

After about 3 weeks of working on this, I finally figured it out. I used to think it was going to take brute strength to top out, but that didn't work. And it left my hands looking like a poster ad for Band-Aid. Then I thought I could actually finish with fewer movements, but that was a bust, too.

Today, though, I was just working on the topout, instead of starting with the 3 consecutive heel hooks, but I found the perfect foot placement for my left foot that got my right into the best place to leverage my whole body over. On Saturday I'll put the whole route together. I was a great feeling, since I could flash the other V4 on the same mushroom

Johnny Kipp · · St Albert Alberta · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 70

Always a good feeling to conquer a problem. Tough to give advice with no pics.
Congrats on the win. I've yet to beat any 4's at my gym. To fat for any overhung V3's as well. Haha.

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

It really is. Sorry there were no picks. I'm too busy climbing to think about taking pics. And I have the routes in my head, so I don't feel the need to draw up plans. Plus most people at my gym are really friendly and will talk out betas with you.

I know the feeling of overhung problems. I'm not big, but I'm extremely inflexible due to angalosing spondilitis. So that usually stands in my way

Johnny Kipp · · St Albert Alberta · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 70

That's tough man. Good on you for keeping on the wall. I don't know much about the condition other than a quick google search but I hope you are able to keep doing the things you love.
Good luck.

JulianG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Sometimes some roof problems can be harder for tall people. Also, I get in trouble in corners but it is easier to deal then roofs.

I have seen people using their knee to push against the lip of the roof. it has to pretty high by your waist and perpendicular to the wall. The reverse knee bar. First time I have seen it done was at the Gunks. Personally, I don't really like it but the guy did it pretty smooth.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 80

We tend to call bouldering climbs "problems" and use "route" for rope climbs. It's not really important, but it's sort of like gun people with "clip" versus "magazine." Just an FYI.

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

I get that Rob. I used to have my ears stretched, and people who do that know it's called "stretching", not "gauging".
I tend use the word "problem" when I approach a new one. Once I figure out the right solution for me, I call that the route. Of course, it gets interchanged sometimes. But I'll try to be more careful in the future.

Julian, I did try to use my knee before. It really didn't work even though there is a great hold that should be perfect for it. But the correct method really make it super easy

JulianG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5
Baba Fats wrote:I get that Rob. I used to have my ears stretched, and people who do that know it's called stretching, not gauging. I tend use the word problem when I approach a new one. Once I figure out the right solution for me, I call that the route. Of course, it gets interchanged sometimes. But I'll try to be more careful in the future. Julian, I did try to use my knee before. It really didn't work even though there is a great hold that should be perfect for it. But the correct method really make it super easy
Not on a hold straight in to the wall like leaning with your hand and pushing against the wall. I know is not natural, or you can forget about the feet and campus one move or two
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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