Practice Aid Climbing in SF Bay Area


Original Post
bricepollock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 632

Anyone have some updated beta on bolt ladders or other decent aid in bay area to practice this winter?

I've seen a couple old topics on this, but they have lots of semi-complete information and nothing recent. This is advice I've read thus far:

* Just go to Yosemite
* Pinnacles
* Walk train tracks until you find a bridge with cracks
* Lexington Rock? (unsure location)
* Foothill expressway (maybe here: 37.351043, -122.085538)
* Bolt Ladder at Diablo (no longer recommended on lead due to bad bolts)
* Main Wall in Aquarian Valley (maybe this one? mountainproject.com/v/do-no...)
* Jug up Goat Rock's overhang in Castle Rock
* Tree Surgeon at Summit Rock

Obviously for the rock routes it would be clean aid not pins.

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

The crack at Ocean beach SF
Beaver street wall SF
Waterfall cliff CRSP
Farewell to Arms CRSP

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 3

Where did you hear about Mt. Diablo's bolts being bad? Bolt Route (the aid route) next to Amazing Face has fairly new bolts that are very closely spaced together.

Rob P. · · Twin Cities · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 250

There's a 5.11+ (5.12 in some books?) crack left of the great roof at castle you could aid if you're in the area already.

Pyramid crack at castle could get you a handful of moves of practice. Especially from the sit start ;)

Guadalupe rock could be ok hooking practice and a great place to practice a range low angle to slightly off vertical jugging. It's not a great crag, but I would at least go there once if you haven't yet. Nice, easy access top anchors. There's 5-8 routes (mostly variations) with potential for a few harder climbs if you want to clean them. It's a pretty cool, fairly secluded spot just outside of San Jose. The Bruce Morris castle rock guidebook has details on where it is.

Lexington rock is off Los Gatos creek bike trail near the Lexington reservoir. There's one pretty dirty finger crack that would be ok to run aid laps on. Easy top rope anchor off a giant tree. The full wall traverse is ~V3 and is really nice even with no pads.

simplyput · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

there's a couple low angle crack lines at Diablo that are good for (clean)aid practice, especially if you are on TR cos you're a little wuss like me.

bricepollock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 632
Alec Sluser wrote:Where did you hear about Mt. Diablo's bolts being bad? Bolt Route (the aid route) next to Amazing Face has fairly new bolts that are very closely spaced together.
I saw that Bolt Route yesterday at Boy Scout rocks, looks pretty good: mountainproject.com/v/bolt-...

I was talking about this old bolt route in Pine Canyon. Haven't seen in person, just reading comments.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/old-bolt-route/105807421
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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