Safe Anchor Building


Original Post
speth · · Denver · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 45

A friend of mine recently set up this anchor to belay a second. He said it was safe enough to take a shirtless whip off of, but I'm not so sure. Is this a safe setup, or probably YGD?

YGD

Kurt G. · · Reading, PA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 110

YGD! theres a reason the crossloading specs are printed right on the biner. also no biner to biner, there should be something in between. also not a comfortable amount of redundancy

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 265

OMG!! Thanks for the laugh!

I like the nest. Pretty crucial component.

OLH

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6

Can't see what the left arm of the anchor goes around. Anything?

Biner-to-biner isn't really an issue, despite someone mentioning it. And, from the climber's side, it isn't actually that -- it is keeping the rope-biner on the guide-mode device from flipping, so not a weight-bearing issue.

Main issue is the cross-loading of the main-point biner. Not good, but not likely to be fatal; should hold a follower falling without issue.

speth · · Denver · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 45
Kurt G. wrote:YGD! theres a reason the crossloading specs are printed right on the biner. also no biner to biner, there should be something in between. also not a comfortable amount of redundancy
See, that's what I thought, but this was a setup on all of his anchors. This one seems to have too many lockers.

YGD2
Jfriday1 · · Conifer, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

1st pic could have used the orange cord instead of the yellow sling to make it longer and then not crossload the master point biner.

second pic I would have added another piece in the system in case the rock is shitty in that one spot.

These are livable belays, but it would make me question his anchor building skills and I might not want to climb with him if he wasn't open to improving. But thats just me.

Jfriday1 · · Conifer, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

Also that rope looks kinda Fat for a Micro-jul, must have been a pain to pull rope through it.

Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 30

YGD for a second reason too - the brake biner is clipped through the hanging biner on the belay device. If that crossloaded biner twists even a little, the brake biner won't allow the device to brake.

YGD - Climber strand just runs freely through - don't clip brake biner to hanging biner...
The climber strand will just run freely through the device since he hanging biner keeps the brake biner from sliding to the bottom of the ATC...

Kurt G. · · Reading, PA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 110
speth wrote: See, that's what I thought, but this was a setup on all of his anchors. This one seems to have too many lockers.
yeah haha. I was being a little sarcastic with my initial response, it doesn't look deadly but certainly not SERENE. have your buddy take an anchor class, just to clean things up a bit.
Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 509

Big problem I see is that if the right thread fails the whole anchor is going to swing left. Definitely not bomber enough for a shirtless whip.

Also, there is a new way to lock off the rope biner with the Megajul to solve the issue Jack Servedio brought up. Here is a link Megajul discussion

Conor Mark · · Asheville, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 665

Besides the cross-loaded biner, the legs in that anchor are approaching a near horizontal orientation, which will multiply forces to each piece. Those slings should be extended to bring the angle between them under 90. The black and white sling has an erroneous figure 8, and the bights formed by the overhand are un-equalized. Why weren't that orange cord and large belay biner utilized?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Priceless.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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