Sunny 12s in CCC and BoCo


Original Post
Mike McKinnon · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 65

Looking for sunny places to climb 12s. Please indicate whether it is afternoon or morning sun. I know of:

CCC:
Dog House
Highlander

Not sure about armory and primo?

BoCo:
Blob
Animal World?
Lower Dream
Upper Dream

What else is in the sun? Looking for some recommendations. Thanks in advance!

edanner · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

You basically have a good list

In clear creek I would add

Convenience cliff has afternoon sun. Can be a pain to hike with snow.
quarts sports 5.12b at the crystal tower(almost all day)
The whole right side of the dog house (all day)
afternoons you can get on wall of the 90s

I am just breaking into the 12s and these are what I have found. DM me if you need a catch.

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Mike McKinnon wrote:Looking for sunny places to climb 12s. Please indicate whether it is afternoon or morning sun. I know of: CCC: Dog House Highlander Not sure about armory and primo? BoCo: Blob Animal World? Lower Dream Upper Dream What else is in the sun? Looking for some recommendations. Thanks in advance!
CCC
One or more 12s
Sports Challenge Wall
Red Slab
High Wire
Right Wire
?Irok
Armory- Handicapable and ?Ken Tanks
Crystal Tower
Primo- left end
East Colfax- single route on R end, afternoon

BoCan
Berlin Wall
Animal World-yes
Security Risk
Bitty Buttress - The Jitters, The Buzz, etc
Blob and East Blob
Bowling Alley
Sport Park- recovery Room and upper walls in Am, west face of surprising crag and overhang crag in pm.

There are more in both canyons that I haven't visited.

Might want to think about the Flatirons too.
The Hand- Power bulge.
Red Devil
?The Box
Not sure what else is sunny.
Mike McKinnon · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 65

Thanks Mark.

Add Coney Island to the list. I was there on Saturday and it has 2 great ones. In the sun all day. joy Ride and the one right next to it.

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Mike McKinnon wrote:Thanks Mark. Add Coney Island to the list. I was there on Saturday and it has 2 great ones. In the sun all day. joy Ride and the one right next to it.
Good call. Der Letze Zug is good, maybe that's the one you mean. It's hard though. Still working on that one!

Couple of other possibilities, although both low in the canyon, so sunshine a little iffy.

Antagonism at Nip and Tuck (actually there are some other 12s there I've never tried and would like to) and Jazz on the Mezzanine at the Boulderado.

There's a pretty good 12 at the Arena. The other routes are mostly good, ratings generally fairly solid. Crag was just rebolted too.

I was also thinking about Chains of Love in the Flatirons, but have never seen it.
Mike McKinnon · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 65
Mark E Dixon wrote: Good call. Der Letze Zug is good, maybe that's the one you mean. It's hard though. Still working on that one! Couple of other possibilities, although both low in the canyon, so sunshine a little iffy. Antagonism at Nip and Tuck (actually there are some other 12s there I've never tried and would like to) and Jazz on the Mezzanine at the Boulderado. There's a pretty good 12 at the Arena. The other routes are mostly good, ratings generally fairly solid. Crag was just rebolted too. I was also thinking about Chains of Love in the Flatirons, but have never seen it.
Yes Der Letze Zug. No way that is 12c. Way harder than twitch, anarchetect, ultrasaurus, milkbone and super cream. Something must have broken off that thing.
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Mike McKinnon wrote: Yes Der Letze Zug. No way that is 12c. Way harder than twitch, anarchetect, ultrasaurus, milkbone and super cream. Something must have broken off that thing.
It seems pretty solid for the grade.
I remember flailing on it 10 years ago though, and don't recall any more holds then than now.
Mike McKinnon · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 65
Mark E Dixon wrote: I was also thinking about Chains of Love in the Flatirons, but have never seen it.
Great route. Just a bitch of a hike] for one climb
Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83

Nevermind. I can't read.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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