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How bad is the bolt/anchor situation at Sand Rock?


Original Post
Jackson Moody · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Looking to plan a sport climbing trip somewhere in the southeast during December, and Sand Rock looked like a good option for me.

I've heard some info here and there about questionable cold shuts and rusty bolts at Sand Rock, and I was wondering how bad it really is. I don't mind the occasional questionable bolt, but I don't want to be climbing on rusted out crap the whole time.

Also taking suggestions on other sport climbing areas within a few hours drive of Atlanta. Looking for somewhere with a good amount of easier leads 5.7-5.9

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

You'd have to try and find bad bolts. On top there are many bolts to set up TR. if you see rusted crap then look around and find the new bolts. Bring some webbing for TR and of course don't TR right through the rings

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

another option is foster falls if the fires die down around that area. If you're willing to drive to knoxville, the Obed is supposed to be world class.

Jackson Moody · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
webdog wrote:You'd have to try and find bad bolts. On top there are many bolts to set up TR. if you see rusted crap then look around and find the new bolts. Bring some webbing for TR and of course don't TR right through the rings
Cool, thanks for the info, and no worries. I always use webbing to build TR anchors.

eli poss wrote:another option is foster falls if the fires die down around that area. If you're willing to drive to knoxville, the Obed is supposed to be world class.
We might check out Foster Falls! I think we are also going to go to Yonah for a night!
Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

I agree that you probably won't find any bad bolts on the more popular moderate climbs. If you have the chance to go Sandrock on a weekday, you'll have the place to yourself.

I would mention that Foster Falls doesn't have much in the 5.7-8 range, maybe like six routes. I don't think any of the 5.8s there are great. Good climbing at Foster Falls really starts at 5.9 and higher.

Luke R 84 · · Georgia · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 353

Yonah has a few different sections. The bolts on the lowers are ridiculously excessive but of semi-questionable quality- I'd stick to climbing grades that are well below your ability. The uppers are a lot better, but most of the routes worth doing are trad or scary (e.g Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds, which is probably more like trad than sport). Also it's a steep hike in. Can be an awesome mileage day though!

Jackson Moody · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Brandon.Phillips wrote:I agree that you probably won't find any bad bolts on the more popular moderate climbs. If you have the chance to go Sandrock on a weekday, you'll have the place to yourself. I would mention that Foster Falls doesn't have much in the 5.7-8 range, maybe like six routes. I don't think any of the 5.8s there are great. Good climbing at Foster Falls really starts at 5.9 and higher.
Thanks for the info! Hopefully we can hit Sandrock on a weekday

Luke R 84 wrote:Yonah has a few different sections. The bolts on the lowers are ridiculously excessive but of semi-questionable quality- I'd stick to climbing grades that are well below your ability. The uppers are a lot better, but most of the routes worth doing are trad or scary (e.g Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds, which is probably more like trad than sport). Also it's a steep hike in. Can be an awesome mileage day though!
Thanks! What do you think of the main face, the multipitch routes specifically? I know most of them can be linked in one pitch with a double rap, but it would be a good opportunity to practice multipitch switchovers and such.

Also, is the camping a hike in?
Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 1,285

Main face at Yonah has a mix of trad and sport. The colored routes on the left are all in the 5.5 - 5.7 range and are fully bolted. Good practice for multipitch. You can camp near the parking lot or any number of established sites up the trail and including the summit

Jon Powell · · LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 110

Just a heads up. Yonah offers some great climbing options for just about any skill level. It also gets full sun in the afternoon which is nice in the winter. Just keep an eye on the weather. If we are getting a lot of rain it will freeze and thaw for days even weeks after a heavy rain.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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