Micro-Take culture in hard sport climbing


Original Post
Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

I think it's time to finally address hard sport climbings dirty little secret. I am sick of the rampant micro-take culture that is oh so common among the "Pros" who are "really pushing the limits". I fire up the 8a.nu website and 8 out of the top 10 best ticks recently are all guilty of this.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 5

explain "micro-take"

NickO · · Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

It's all about that Macro-take

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 55

Seriously! With a short fifi on my belay loop, I get "no hands rests" around nearly every bolt.

Gavin Towey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Daniel Winder wrote:Seriously! With a short fifi on my belay loop, I get "no hands rests" around nearly every bolt.
Sport aid!
Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225

Micro-Aggression!

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

remember to take as well as give man, micro takes all add up in the end.

George W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 3

Its the responsibility of the belay to keep that shit in check!

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

First world problems.

Maureen Maguire · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

Don't even need the Fifi. Just put your foot on the belay side of the rope while you're at the bolt and hang there. Nobody even sees you do it. Sport climbing is what it is. What? You didn't know this? Dangling in its many forms.

Kevin MP · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 178

penalty slack!

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 9,632

When I took a half-day course in France last year on "How to Cheat" in sport climbing, my instructor said that
in France, it's easy to see the difference ...

People stuck in the 5.10s (French sport grade 6) are climbing their routes with good style.

People progressing in the 5.12s (French sport grade 8) are "cheating" whenever they feel it helps.

Ken

ChapelPondGirl · · Keene, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

It's only cheating if you lie about it. Otherwise it's called climbing.

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Naw, it's cheating. The worst kind of cheating. Lieing to yourself.

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Ken, I'm curious, what are some of the cheating techniques? I do need to expand my repertoire. :-) I would like to point out that 5.12 is 7a+ to 7c, with 7a at 11d and 7c+ at 13a. Finally, it is important to note that in this day and age .12 sport is essentially just a warm-up to most climbers (not me :-/).

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 9,632
the schmuck wrote:I would like to point out that 5.12 is 7a+ to 7c, with 7a at 11d and 7c+ at 13a.
Yes you're right: French sport 8 is getting into the 5.13s.
Which now helps me further understand his point -- that any climbers still working thru the 5.12s must be confused about cheating strategy.

Specifics on How to Cheat sounds like better for another thread on another forum.

Ken
Brent Apgar · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 35
the schmuck wrote:. Finally, it is important to note that in this day and age .12 sport is essentially just a warm-up to most climbers (not me :-/).
I believe that MP did a stats trivia post at one point and (at least given what MP users are logging on their pages) the median grade that MP users climb was 10-.

I think that assuming most climbers actually warm up on 12s (as in a casual route to stretch out on and cruise) is a gross overestimation.
Or you happen to only climb w/ folks that are actually in the top 20% of the climbing population.
simplyput · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0
Brent Apgar wrote: I believe that MP did a stats trivia post at one point and (at least given what MP users are logging on their pages) the median grade that MP users climb was 10-. I think that assuming most climbers actually warm up on 12s (as in a casual route to stretch out on and cruise) is a gross overestimation. Or you happen to only climb w/ folks that are actually in the top 20% of the climbing population.
I don't think most sport climbers who cruise 5.12 bother with MP forums and surveys, chances are they spend more time climbing. To add, most MP users are Americans, in my experience abroad, most climbers who cruise 5.12 are not. You ever seen a fat french grandpa at the sport crag? 5.12 all day.
I watched a french woman in her mid 60s cruise 5.12C onsight repeatedly.
Creed A · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 680

Stupid American trad climber question: Is this a real thing? Are people really sport climbing with fifis and standing on the rope? Or is this someone's attempt at satire on microagressions?

JoshBl · · Chattanooga or Atlanta · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

I thought fifi's were found in prison?

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
JoshBl wrote:I thought fifi's were found in prison?
different kind of fifi
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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