Mountaineer's coil variation, anybody do this?


Original Post
Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 165

I recently did some simul-climbing and needed to use a mountaineer's coil. For years, I've used this technique to coil cables and garden hose.

It has the advantage of eliminating twists when the cable is uncoiled. On the day I needed the mountaineer's coil, I did this with my rope (it's kind of an autopilot thing with me now), the climbing was easy, and I didn't really test the system in any way. Is there a reason why this isn't done with a mountaineers coil? None of the written sources (Freedom of the Hills, for one example) or YouTube videos I've seen show this technique used with climbing rope.

Does anyone else coil their rope this way? More importantly, does anyone know why I shouldn't do this?

T Roper · · DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 860

because once a rope is broken in it will be too soft and flexible to do this with ease

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55
Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 165

Thanks Doug!

JohnPaulO · · Cedar Park, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 95

I use an over/under coil for my climbing rope quite often. I make it large enough to wear diagonally around my torso as I would a 24" / 60cm runner. I don't usually have room in my pack for the rope, so this works well to carry it, even with a pack on.

Works great, seems less likely to get caught on vegetation. No need to flake at the base of a climb.

Only potential problem is a big one:
If someone who doesn't understand how to properly undo the final tie off wrap on this coil does it, there is about a 50/50 chance they will mess it up and pull one end through the middle of the loop and you will end up with an evenly spaced series of overhand knots throughout the entire rope.

I do a rope backpack if its someone elses rope and they are likely to lead with it. Rope backpack starting from the middle if they are likely to top rope with it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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