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Best Use of Small Area in Apt


Original Post
J Miles · · Queensbury, NY · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 15

I'm looking for some ideas about how to best utilize the small space I have in my apartment for training. The space is about 4' wide x 6' deep and 7' tall. I had just a hangboard at one point, but found it too boring and too specific (purely finger strength). I'm thinking something like this free standing wall (don't want to mess up the apt), but not sure if that's my best option. I'd like to train short movements, strength and endurance. Thoughts?

Dan Austin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Fwiw I think the space is small enough that any sort of climbing or training apparatus is going to get boring fast. Though hangboarding can be boring, at least it's incredibly effective. Did you have a pulley system installed before? If not, I'd look into setting one up and finding a hangboard protocol you can follow with discipline. It's less boring to me if I have a concrete plan and can easily track my progress, but ymmv

Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 15

A small collection of dumbbells, a pullup bar, a hangboard, a weight vest, a box, and a mat might be a good start. Rice bucket? Maybe a bike trainer, they stash well.

The best way to keep such a small area from being boring, is having a lot of variety, and I'm gonna say the best way to pack a lot of variety in a small space is bodyweight exercises & small weights.

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 165

Look up the Nicros HIT system wall. I put one up after seeing a stronger partner get even stronger using this. It takes up about the amount of space that you have. I have used it as a mid week workout for over six months (not necessarily following the optimal frequency of the system) and have been sending routes two or more letter grades than in the recent past. It is monotonous but such a great workout that I don't get bored by it. You add weight and/or increase the angle of overhang so it is useful as you grow stronger. It trains crimps, open crimps, pinches, pockets and has jugs too. I have had rock rings and a hang board for years but was never able to get psyched on them like I am on my HIT wall.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 11,788

Last year I built a 15-degree freestanding training board with campus rungs and a removable hangboard (with pulley system) for a small space similar to your space. It's been effective. It doesn't leave much room for legit feet-off campusing (not very wide nor deep enough) but it works. For feet-on up/down laddering and training lockoffs on the campus rungs it works well. We put the campus rungs off to one side so we could have two rows of rungs/holds but if you were to get serious about campusing, I think it would be better to keep the rungs in the middle to allow more space side-to-side for your legs to swing.

We considered doing something like the free-standing wall you linked to but I don't think that amount of space is enough for a woody with random holds--with such a small space I feel it has to be more of a specific training center.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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