Is my anchor ok? Is it ok to walk around and look at peoples anchors?


Original Post
JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

I ran out of gear so I made due with what I had. It seemed to work out ok I felt pretty good since there were 3 locking carabiners in the system and 2 bomber and pretty new pieces of webbing that I used. System ran pretty god and smooth for most of the day and I never had to readjust anything.

On another topic, Myself and my experienced group were getting quite nervous throughout the day. Everyone that was on top of the cliff kept walking over to our anchor. It really makes me nervous when people are above me and especially when they are close to my anchors. It seemed like more people were doing it on this day then normal. I don't think it's very cool especially if you don't know if they are playing with your system that you just set perfectly so you wouldn't have to monitor and check it all day.

What are you thoughts?

Text Book Top Rope Anchor

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

Yer gonna die.

But really, that is un-belay-vable. Cross loaded like a biatch.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 268

That is anchor perfection right there. Perhaps the worlds best toprope anchor.... ever! I don't know. I wish people would admire my anchors.

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

I apologize for feeding the troll.

Great anchor.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Nicely done! ...assuming this is trolling. If this is serious, YGD.

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701

Crossloaded. Make a bowline around trees and boulders. Requires nothing but the rope.

Oh, I thought when you say you ran outta gear, you had just led a pitch! You don't have enough material for a top rope, mang!

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

Yeah, saw it on FB earlier today. I really hope that whoever took the picture, or walked by, took a moment to help out.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

At my local crag, I avoid doing a particular climb on weekends when hikers will swarming the place where my anchor is. It would probably be OK, but I worry about the one person that thinks it would be cute to mess with it, or steal one of the pieces of hardware.

I don't know if you have the luxury of avoiding certain areas on weekends, but that's what I do.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 115

At worst, your 21kN locked gate biner is now a 8kN locked gate biner since it looks like the majority of your load is across the minor axis. At best, you are in the tri-loaded scenario, where you are at about 17kN.

http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=qc-lab-off-axis-tri-axial-carabiner-loading

Nothing like an "experienced group" to test out innovative ways to break gear.

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,352
Matt Himmelstein wrote:At worst, your 21kN locked gate biner is now a 8kN locked gate biner since it looks like the majority of your load is across the minor axis. At best, you are in the tri-loaded scenario, where you are at about 17kN. blackdiamondequipment.com/e... Nothing like an "experienced group" to test out innovative ways to break gear.
Worth noting is that carabiner tests stronger in that configuration than some of the ones I've tested. They were getting around 5kN nose hooked open gate. I've tested biners rated to 22kN that held less than 3kN when nose hooked.
Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 73
FYI
Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

Obvious troll is obvious. 2/10

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

Here's another example of why I roll my eyes at people being obsessed with building TR anchors that have locking biners when instead they should be focused on building TR anchors are good.

AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

You need a bigger tree. And 50 or 60 locking biners to link together to extend your two slings. Otherwise great.

JPVallone wrote:I ran out of gear so I made due with what I had. It seemed to work out ok I felt pretty good since there were 3 locking carabiners in the system and 2 bomber and pretty new pieces of webbing that I used. System ran pretty god and smooth for most of the day and I never had to readjust anything. On another topic, Myself and my experienced group were getting quite nervous throughout the day. Everyone that was on top of the cliff kept walking over to our anchor. It really makes me nervous when people are above me and especially when they are close to my anchors. It seemed like more people were doing it on this day then normal. I don't think it's very cool especially if you don't know if they are playing with your system that you just set perfectly so you wouldn't have to monitor and check it all day. What are you thoughts?
Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105

Well, you asked for thoughts... It certainly violates a few key lessons taught to beginners so I suspect it freaked people out a bit, who were either trying to make sense of it or may have been concerned for your safety (ya, it happens). I agree with you, I'd be nervous about people around my anchors too. Now, was it safe? Well you didn't die, so it was safe enough for the load you put on it. Were there better (more bomber-ific) ways to build it with the same gear? I believe so. But, I'm only sharing my opinion because you asked and because I didn't have to (in hindsight) haul out an injured climber.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

I like the way you worked in the red and blue slings equally to mimic the current political climate. I predict an epic fail on the red one.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Eric Engberg wrote:I like the way you worked in the red and blue slings equally to mimic the current political climate. I predict an epic fail on the red one.
That could work out like the last predictions!
Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,752

yes... and no.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 165

this is clearly a post by skankhunt42. he must have made a new account.

Kris Holub · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 70
Paul Hutton wrote:Crossloaded. Make a bowline around trees and boulders. Requires nothing but the rope. Oh, I thought when you say you ran outta gear, you had just led a pitch! You don't have enough material for a top rope, mang!
Plenty of material as-is:

Girth hitch the blue and red slings together, basket hitch the tree with the now double-length sling and throw an overhand/8 in to create a master point, leaving the load split by 4 strands with redundancy
Eric Sasaki · · burlington · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Saw this on the Gunks Climbing Coalition Facebook page

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/5cwl8w/my_buddy_snapped_this_pic_of_a_tr_anchor_above/?st=ivjw5652&sh=8501df1b

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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