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Original Post
JulianG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 130

My question is. Can we get stronger at jamming (like our finger strength) or just get better at it by practicing (like footwork)?

I build a 12 ft jamming machine last winter and I did get a lot better at it. This winter practicing jamming is out of question, i broke my foot (or at least sprain it really bad)

Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

Both - some jams are all technique and pain tolerance where you need little force to maintain an effective jam and some jams where you need a lot of strength to maintain an effective jam (...and also technique and pain tolerance).

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,785

If there are muscles involved, then you can get stronger at it. I'm thinking of strenuous jams like thin hands where you have to cup real hard. But I'm no crackspert; maybe I was cupping when I should have been twisting.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Yeah. As with regular climbing, there is a strength and technique component, but you'll always see bigger gains in the latter until you're at the elite level. Crack climbing can be extremely strenuous, though, so general conditioning is always good. Look at some of the stuff Tom Randall does for a great example of how to train for cracks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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