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Buying a new rope for my situation.


Original Post
Nielsonru Nielson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 35

The 80 meter rope thread prompted me to ask advice for future rope purchasing.

So a question for you all. I am getting ready to retire my Mammut 10mm, 60 m rope. Currently the only other rope I have is an 80m, 9.8mm edelrid ( got a really good deal on it a few years ago that I couldn't pass up on). It was great when I was in SLC for multipitch/long routes, and I didn't mind the weight because the approaches were short. But where I am at in Idaho, its just been more of a hassle, and I don't want to haul or manage that kind of length on something like the Grand Teton.

I am looking to have as much flexibility possible with as few amount of ropes. This would mean having a setup for gym and crag that covers most of what is around here, but also something for mountaineering in the Tetons where I am trying to go lighter.

One thought is to buy a new 60m rope, and I've seriously thought about cutting my 80m in half so I can split it with my partner, use it like a double rope setup (though I go with enough people that I hesitate to get into double rope management), or whip out the 2nd rope for a long rappel, such as somewhere like the The Grand Teton.
-Or-
I could keep the 80m, and buy a 60m for cragging and alpine, then use a tag line/ pull cord for mountaineering rappels ( this seems to be the go to for canyoneering when I go).

Basically I am looking at something for occasional mountaineering with long approaches, cragging and gym. I might still keep my 80m for long climbs with short approaches.

Curious your thoughts and setups, especially from those like me who don't own or plan on owning a ton of different ropes.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

If you have regular partners, it's a good idea to get a rope set-up different from theirs, that way when you climb together you can bring whoever's rope best fits the situation.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

I would keep the 80m just so you can cut it when it eventually gets worn, until you have a 60m. Also, having an 80m in the alpine could be useful to really link some long pitches to save time. It could also be useful for fewer raps if you have to bail.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 125

I don't know how much you climb in the gym, but if you do that a bit, you might chop the 80 and rotate them so you can use it for the gym or for days outside where a 40m rope is good enough, or bring both when you need to rap the full 40. Then buy a mid weight 70m that gives you a bit more flexibility to link pitches but i still nice and light for the approach.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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