What did I just climb? (Gunks, between Strictly and Shockley's)


Original Post
Gabe Schwartz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

We intended to do the popular link-up, having done neither before. Shockley's was seeing a lot of traffic though, so we didn't get to do that part of it. We decided to do the 2nd pitch of Strictly, but it isn't what we ended up doing. I ended up heading over to a roof that is between the two climbs, but closer to Strictly. It seemed tougher than the P1 crux. There was an old broken pin right at the roof as well as a more sturdy pin maybe 15' below the roof. I can't seem to find any info on it. Any idea of what we just climbed?

~ Gabe

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,740

Nowadays there seems to be two ways to do P2 of Strictly. What you're describing sounds to me like the original P2, which is now a variation at 5.5 in the Grey Dick book. Not that long ago (black Dick and his Select book) called this pitch 5.7. I've done it a few times and would split the difference: it felt like a 7 the first time, but more like a 6 since then.

Gabe Schwartz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks. It does sound like the variation in the grey Dick book, but the 5.5 rating threw me off. It felt like hard 5.7 to me, but agree it would likely be easier if I did it again.

~ Gabe

Systematic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 351

I remember some 5.6-7 moves if you take the contrived hard way left but up the ramp on the right avoids them, bringing the pitch down to 5.5

Caz Drach · · Sugarhouse, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

5.5 + maybe...

Gabe Schwartz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

The pitch was mostly 5.4-5.5, which is what I was expecting. The roof with the broken pin, however, was much tougher than the rest of the pitch. Both me and my partner agreed that whatever roof we did was tougher than the roof on the first pitch. Subjective, sure. But that roof was no 5.5.

~ Gabe

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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