Bowline Variants


Original Post
Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,015

First off, if you want to talk about accidents attributed to knots coming undone or how much better you think an eight is, don't. The only thing I want to discuss is bowline variants. There are enough threads on those topics, but there are plenty of us who use a bowline to warrant it's discussion.

I've used what we call a paranoid bowline for a while now. Love it, except that it takes up two strands of rope at the tie in points.

Paranoid bowline

Paranoid bowline

Recently I started playing with the EBSB (end bound single bowline), and while it's secure I don't like the cleanliness of it. Info on it in here: igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic...

I took the EBSB and started with a double bowline for the initial bowline, and finished per the EBSB and this is what it looks like. I'm a fan. Does anyone else use this knot?

Double with bound tail

Double with end bound

Double with end bound

Double with end bound

Double with end bound
Double with end bound

mcarizona · · Flag · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 180

Why not just use the seatbelt?

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,430

Sam, any graphics or instructions on how to tie these variations?

Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,015

Instructions for the EBSB can be found in the link. I can do something for the others this evening on my way to the new.

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 7,266

www.paci.com.au/downloads_public/knots/Bowlines_Analysis.pdf

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,352

This has been covered, over and over again. Here are some of the more popular variants:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/incident-climbers-bowline-came-untied-while-climbing-at-rifle/112122298__1

Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,015
20 kN wrote:This has been covered, over and over again. Here are some of the more popular variants: mountainproject.com/v/incid...
You're correct, I forgot it had been covered so recently. I apologize. Delete this if you want
keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Don't delete!

The pics of you in your car tying knots are precious!

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

This is what I use to tie-in:

Single bowline w/ double fishy

It's simple, secure, and easy/quick to tie. What more do you want?

Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,015
keithconn wrote:Don't delete! The pics of you in your car tying knots are precious!
That's me sitting in my work truck killing time between inspections
Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 115

A friend from Europe showed me how to tie a bowline on a bight retraced, and that is what I use, with a double fisherman's securing the tail.

What is funny is that I learned how little my partners actually pay attention when doing a buddy check. Everyone I climb with (except 1 guy) would look at my knot and proclaim it good to go. I would then have to inform then that they never really checked me, since I did not tie an 8 and that's what they expect to see. That 1 guy actually looked at my knot and told me he had no idea if I was tied in or not.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Wait for it...wait for it...

YER GUNNA DIE! ;p

Sorry, somebody had to say it.

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,352
Matt Himmelstein wrote:What is funny is that I learned how little my partners actually pay attention when doing a buddy check. Everyone I climb with (except 1 guy) would look at my knot and proclaim it good to go.
Yep, that's Wednesday at the local crag. I do the same. I use it as a noob test when climbing with someone new. I tie the bowline, hold it in plain sight and ask "Is my figure eight good?". Over half the people say yes... I then follow up and ask why they provided the incorrect answer. On several instances it was not a matter of paying attention. One climber admitted she lied about performing the check because she dident want to get caught looking at my crotch because her boyfriend gets jealous easy. Another said he noticed it looked funny, but figured I knew what I was doing so he dident say anything. Case in point, assume all climbers are unsafe until vetted otherwise.
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 478

The two strands of rope on your tie in point with the "paranoid" bowline should reduce wear on your tie in points I would think. It seems like another advantage of the knot to me. What advantage do you see with the double EBSB Sam?

Brent Apgar · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
20 kN wrote: Yep, that's Wednesday at the local crag. I do the same. I use it as a noob test when climbing with someone new. I tie the bowline, hold it in plain sight and ask "Is my figure eight good?". Over half the people say yes... I then follow up and ask why they provided the incorrect answer. On several instances it was not a matter of paying attention. One climber admitted she lied about performing the check because she dident want to get caught looking at my crotch because her boyfriend gets jealous easy. Another said he noticed it looked funny, but figured I knew what I was doing so he dident say anything. Case in point, assume all climbers are unsafe until vetted otherwise.
Which is why I'm amazed that there aren't actually more accidents than there are.
Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,015
Nick Drake wrote:The two strands of rope on your tie in point with the "paranoid" bowline should reduce wear on your tie in points I would think. It seems like another advantage of the knot to me. What advantage do you see with the double EBSB Sam?
It just looks cleaner.

After playing with it this weekend, I'm sticking with my paranoid bowline. It's absolutely as bomb proof as any knot can be.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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