Helping a follower on multipitch

Euro multipitch sport climbs often, (or perhaps typically, I'm not that familiar) have a difficulty grade and an obligatory grade, which is the grade you have to be able to climb at if you are going to use the bolts for aid, i.e. the type of moves you'll have to be able to make when bolts are out of reach. I don't think that's available at Potrero.

If the climber in question can't climb at the obligatory grade for the route, then French free techniques will not work because they won't be able to manage the climbing between the bolts, and the second is left with ascender techniques, since hauling cannot be counted on.

I'm sticking with my claim that if a tight rope isn't enough, the choice of climb is too difficult for the person in question and no one is going to have a particularly pleasant time.

TimothyCoca wrote:So some friends and I are planning a trip to El Potrero Chico in December, but I'm slightly worried about a member of our party not being able to keep up and climb/follow all the pitches. I really want everyone to summit and not be left out, so I was wondering if you guys have some way that I can help her follow. For example, if I've just led a pitch and begin belaying her in guide mode, could I just toss her the belay strand of the rope and have her pull herself up? If that sounds too difficult, is there some type of system I could rig to make it easier? Thanks.

Look, I know there's a tradition of taking naked pics on top of Time Wave Zero, but really, have you considered more appropriate ways to achieve the desired level of nudity?

+1 for Richard's tight-rope threshold.

rgold wrote:If the climber in question can't climb at the obligatory grade for the route, then French free techniques will not work because they won't be able to manage the climbing between the bolts, and the second is left with ascender techniques, since hauling cannot be counted on.

This does not make sense to me. A follower who practices a couple of basic techniques who has a sufficently skilled experiened (and well-equipped) Leader should be able to climb bolted routes with sections harder than "normal A0" capability -- because ...

The "Maximum versus Obligatory" difficulty grade distinction applies to the Leader, not to the Follower. There may be additional Aid techniques available to the Follower -- other than Hauling and Ascending.
like ...

• I recommended bringing two Etriers (plus some additional slings or cord). If the leader chains two Etriers together hanging down off the next bolt above a crux sequence, or one etrier from some additional slings or cord, etc. ... then lots more "cheating" possibilities are open. The follower could grab a hanging etrier loop with their hand instead of feet.

. . . (and experienced leaders on multi-pitch routes in France often carry like five Trad pieces for when there's no bolt close by).

• Yarding: If the too-difficult pitch is short, the leader could get lowered down to the bottom next to the follower, then the follower climbs in "sport-crag" (or "indoor") Top-Roping style, with belay from below. When reach the crux section, the Follower puts both hands on the rope strand most direct down to the belayer, and pulls down on it (simultaneous with the Leader pulling down). "Yarding" is a standard technique for working (or avoiding) difficult sequences in single-pitch Sport cragging -- works all the time.

. . (My point is not that this is the most "time-effective" method on Multi-Pitch, rather that it does not require that the Leader or Follower remember or have recent practice at some special "pulley" or "ascension" technique -- There's lots more tricks easy-to-figure-out when climbing in an environment where lots of convenient fixed hardware is available).

• The leader going back to rejoin the Follower could also work to rig a line to protect (or aid) horizontally between bolts on a short traversing section (I've done that for Sharon on an uncrowded day on an uncrowded route).

anyway ...
using Ascenders for a short crux section (or if Follower falls off on a traverse) is really not so difficult (provided the Follower practices in advance). I have Ascended back onto the route when I had fallen on a traverse into an unclimbable part of the face (and so has Sharon).

And partners on multi-pitch Aid climbs routinely use Ascenders to avoid (difficult?) climbing an entire pitch.

So what's the big deal?

Ken

kenr wrote:There may be additional Aid techniques available to the Follower -- other than Hauling and Ascending. like .... So what's the big deal?

Were we discussing a follower wanting to learn how to aid their way through? My assumption regarding the original question regarded a follower who was really just interested in free climbing.

Thanks so much everyone for your input! After considering all of your expert opinions, I have decided upon the "assisted dyno" technique outlined in this video:
youtube.com/watch?v=LM_2Q_J…