Looking Glass: Rap with single 60m?


Original Post
Corey V · · Falls Church, VA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 50

Hey guys, I just got a chance to climb down at Looking Glass Rock this week. I've only got a single 60m rope with me though. From the guide book and beta online it looks like double ropes or a 70 are recommended. If I wanted to try something like the Nose or Sundial Crack, can I rap off on just one 60m?

Thanks!

Ernest W · · Camarillo, CA · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Both those routes require double ropes to rap down. I've had to let more than one stranded party who went up with a single join us on the rap down.

calebmmallory · · Seattle, N.Carolina, &Hong ... · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 175

You'll need doubles from the parking lot ledge.

Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225

Corey, unfortunately, the Nose and Sundial take two 60's to rap. But there is hope! There are plenty of other routes 5.10 and under that only require a single rope to rap at Looking Glass Rock.
Here are the ones I've personally done with only one rope that I would recommend. There are plenty of others but I almost alway bring two ropes to the glass except at northside for cragging.
South Side:
P-1 of Unfinished Concerto (5.9)
Everything on the stage ledge can be TR'ed with a single 60m (5.6-5.9)

Northside:
P-1 Safari Jive (5.8)

Sunwall:
Lead Labrat (5.8) to the left of LePump and you have a bunch of fun TRs in the 5.10-5.11 range

If you're looking to climb multi-pitch with a single 60m, head to Stone Depot on Cedar Rock. Tons of fun multi-pitch climbs in the 5.5-5.9 range and there are many bolts. Pick up Mike Reardon's book for more info on the area! I can help as well if you shoot me a PM

Corey V · · Falls Church, VA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 50

Thanks for all the beta guys! I found out last minute that I knew a guy who moved down here and got to borrow an extra rope from him. The Nose and Sundial were awesome!

Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225

Nice Cory! If you were out there yesterday I may have ran into you. I was out taking my dog for a walk!

Chris Massey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

Though I have not done it personally and cannot verify, I have heard that you can now rap the routes from the Gemini Crack rings (top of Rats Ass, Second Coming, etc) using the rings on the new route "The Legacy" on the way down, splitting the rap down to the Sentry Box Ledge from one double rope rap to two single rope raps. Maybe someone who has done it can verify and confirm that a 70 or 60 would work.

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 90

If "Legacy" is just to the right of Second Coming, then yes, I think this is true that you could rap off with one single 60 from the top of Gemini. There is a double bolt anchor to the right of, and more or less at the level of where you would belay at the top of the 1st pitch of Second Coming. Which means, yes. Although I have not done this so I cannot 100% verify.

Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,205
Chris Massey wrote:Though I have not done it personally and cannot verify, I have heard that you can now rap the routes from the Gemini Crack rings (top of Rats Ass, Second Coming, etc) using the rings on the new route "The Legacy" on the way down, splitting the rap down to the Sentry Box Ledge from one double rope rap to two single rope raps. Maybe someone who has done it can verify and confirm that a 70 or 60 would work.
This puts you at the base of the South Face, not the Nose area where the OP was asking about.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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