zion crack recommendations


Original Post
Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5

im heading to zion in late january and would love to get on some easier hand/finger cracks. if anyone has some climbs they really loved, let me know. looking for 5.10 or under. would prefer multipitch to single.

currently looking at the organasm and ashtar command. thanks!


Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

its a hard destination for those grades. however, look at

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cynthias-hand-job/106972226

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/iron-messiah/105717823

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-headache/105718186

addtionally, tolet cracks, La tourista at the temple.

mythical kings and iguanas

the 1st two pitches of Chasity crack

it helps to be a 5.11 climber to climb 5.10 here.

the organism will be cold and shaded all day. it also has only one easy crack at the base to a 11+ or C1 roof.

the rest of the route goes free at about 12b


Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:its a hard destination for those grades. however, look at mountainproject.com/v/cynth... mountainproject.com/v/iron-... mountainproject.com/v/the-h... addtionally, tolet cracks, La tourista at the temple. mythical kings and iguanas the 1st two pitches of Chasity crack it helps to be a 5.11 climber to climb 5.10 here. the organism will be cold and shaded all day. it also has only one easy crack at the base to a 11+ or C1 roof. the rest of the route goes free at about 12b
thanks rob. we are going to aid the 2nd and 3rd pitch of organasm. ill take a a look at those other routes.

edit: wow the headache looks awesome. hopefully we have time to fit it in. thanks again!

Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

Check out Cherry Crack in Cerberus Gendarme.

Alot of people who can't climb 5.10 Like to go the Confluence.

A goodish route (2+ stars) is Take Back the Rainbow. It climbs a beautiful wall up to a rad arch....

I've climbed all the routes that Space Lizard recomended and I can confirm they are beginner (to zion) friendly.


Shiho · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35

Coke explosion is fun especially when you are planning on visiting Zion in January. It's south facing.

Riddler's delight is ok. It has a couple of memorable pitches.

Downpressor got a good crux (5.10) pitch, too.


Ryan Hill · · Oakland, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

Take Back the Rainbow is less visited than a lot of the other 5.10 routes in the canyon and I think it climbs really well. Feels adventurous and the arch at the tops is pretty unique.

The Kung Fu Theater is another good stop for 5.10 and harder cragging.

A newer route that seems to not have a lot of traffic, but has decent climbing is ACL Arete. I'd say 10+ is an inflated grade, I seem to remember a bolt protected overhang at the start and then a lot of 5.9 climbing.
http://www.summitpost.org/acl-arete-5-10-10-pitches/896656

Cowboy Ridge is a fun adventure with pretty good climbing on a mile long ridge.

Led By Sheep for 5.6 petrified sand dune climbing. Climbed it at sunset and descended under a full moon around this time last year (*not crack climbing*)


Danger-Russ Gordon · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 200

This is my favorite (lesser known) 5.10 hand crack

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/cynthias-hand-job/106972226


Danger-Russ Gordon · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 200
Ryan Hill wrote:Take Back the Rainbow is less visited than a lot of the other 5.10 routes in the canyon and I think it climbs really well. Feels adventurous and the arch at the tops is pretty unique.
+1 take back the rainbow is my favorite moderate adventure route in the park.

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 6,225

Iron Messiah!


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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