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Mike Libecki solo technique


Original Post
jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 33

Hi folks. I have been experimenting with different lead solo techniques. Trying to find the best method or device for lead solo. Grigri soloist, knots etc.
Does anyone here know what Libecki uses for soloing?

Also, as a side question for those of you lead solo on a grigri are you backing it up or not?

Thanks

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 745

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/your-top-rope-solo-device/107600363__4#a_112297281

This is not my set up,

My TR Solo Setup Ho, LEAD Solo!,Sorry

Healyje wrote: If you're relatively new to climbing you shouldn't be doing any kind of soloing at all.
But if you ask and can prove yourself worthy too, Healyje, might privately,
(not open web posts) give you the advice you seek,
I agree with him though, as per the Quote

Check out the British / Yosemite climber Andrew Kirkpatrick's very detailed stuff. . .

Many solo wall climbers swear by the Silent Partner....

Edit, 11/8/16
10:18am
For the bump
I was kind of amazed that no one else has responded !
My share was to bump your obviously well informed question.
This is the same thing
HealyJe has been responsive in the past, but
Both he and I feel like the people we were interacting with did not
have the requisite skill set, you are surly not that,
sorry if that is what you thought I was saying.
Bump!
? Ho I started with that!t
jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 33

Thanks for the reply. I am not a beginner. I have been at this for 20 years or so.
My TR solo kit is a pair of micro tractions. I have used ushbas, shunts, grigris, prussiks, soloists and nothing before. For lead i have used the soloist and lately the grigri as well as that teather technique that Dean used in the nose video.
I have set a goal to solo a route on el cap. This has forced me to learn some new skills which has been great because it is renewing my interest in a portion of the sport that i have limited experience. Big Walling. I have done grade V free routes with single bivies and a small haul bag, but no real grade VI with real hauls.

So, please dont hold back with your solo rig descriptions because your worried i am gonna die. I have enough experience to not get into trouble doing something stupid.

Thanks,
Joe

batguano · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 135

I use a stock grigri and I clip into backup knots. I'm happy with this setup, it works for me. In fact, I carried a SP up El Cap this fall and didn't use it once (though I might have if there were any hard free pitches). One of the benefits to a gri or something similar is that you won't need to lead with an extra rap device.

gavinsmith · · Toronto, Ontario · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 83

I've been using a Silent Partner lately. I have probably 5 free pitches and 10 aid pitches in and it's only been getting better, generally. With aid it adds quite a bit of bulk, so I stick to clipping in only after I pass a piece and it's at or below the SP.

JeffMK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 240
Michael Schneider wrote:https://www.mountainproject.com/v/your-top-rope-solo-device/107600363__4#a_112297281 This is not my set up, Ho, LEAD Solo!,Sorry But if you ask and can prove yourself worthy too, Healyje, might privately, (not open web posts) give you the advice you seek, I agree with him though, as per the Quote Check out the British / Yosemite climber Andrew Kirkpatrick's very detailed stuff. . . Many solo wall climbers swear by the Silent Partner.... Edit, 11/8/16 10:18am For the bump I was kind of amazed that no one else has responded ! My share was to bump your obviously well informed question. This is the same thing HealyJe has been responsive in the past, but Both he and I feel like the people we were interacting with did not have the requisite skill set, you are surly not that, sorry if that is what you thought I was saying. Bump! ? Ho I started with that!t
That pic is from me. Just FYI, I've never used it to solo lead or even looked into if it is within it's design for that. The biggest thing with the Ushba, for me, is to keep it oriented so that there is hardly ever any slack. I make this happen by using a makeshift chest harness out of a double-length sling that meets in the front and gets clipped into the same basket on the Gridlock as the Ushba ascender.
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350

Lead soloing with a grigri or any device MUST be backed up with knots. I've lead solod with a grigri many times and at least twice in my experience, the cluster around my harness prevented the cam from engaging (once all the way to the backup knot and another time slipping for a bit before twisting and then engaging - both made me wish I'd worn my brown pants)

But I picked up a Silent Partner a few years ago and probably have around 40+ pitches of aid on it (probably less than 10 of only freeclimbing) and it is by far your best option for actually lead climbing rather than lead fiddling every few feet or so.

Unless you're awesome and never fall in which case, just use cloves and run it out.

jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 33

How do you guys use the back up knots? Where are they clipped and how is the rope organized?

mike gibson · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0
jlind wrote:How do you guys use the back up knots? Where are they clipped and how is the rope organized?
This video shows the best method for rope management and backup knots.
youtube.com/watch?v=BzJZSLh…
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

If your goal is to solo El Cap, cut right to the chase and get a Silent Partner. You can use a Gri-gri, although it is not recommend for soloing by Petzl but a Silent Partner is safer and far, far less clustery.

Backwards Eric · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 480

I see on the Rock Exotica site that the Silent Partner is discontinued. Anyone know why or of a similar product?

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

That's a bummer. Probably since it was such a single purpose item.

mike gibson · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0
Backwards Eric wrote:I see on the Rock Exotica site that the Silent Partner is discontinued. Anyone know why or of a similar product?
Here is a new option that looks like a good possibility but it wont be available until next spring or summer.

wildcountry.com/revo/
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350
mike gibson wrote: This video shows the best method for rope management and backup knots.
The rope in a bag method is not advisable as you're carrying all the weight of the rope on your back at the start of the pitch. (caveat, if the end of the pitch is harder freeclimbing than the beggining then this method may be worthwhile)

The best method I've found is the continuous loop method where the end of your lead line is tied to the start of your tag/haul/rap line. (Here's some links to it andy-kirkpatrick.com/articl… And headlampsclusterfucksandoth…)

Your backup knot is normally just an overhand knot or clove hitch clipped to a biner on your harness where you either tie a new knot when you get to the end of the loop the first knot made or multiple knots to the biner so that you can quickly unclip the clove hitch as you're climbing so you don't have to impede the flow of climbing (somewhat).
jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 33

I can see why the continuous loop method is very nice for big wall. Especially if needing to tag. On easier or less gear intensive routes like nose or salathe is it reasonable to not need to tag?

For plain old free climb rope solo i have been wearing a pack with the rope in it and it works very nice. However, i totally get why that is undesireable with a giant rack and a shit load of other stuff for aid.

Thanks for all the help! Between getting advice from you generous folks and following the plan in CM's book i hope not be slowing Mark down too much on the wall this spring.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,265

How about a SOLOAID?

Much less bulk than the Silent Partner.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200
mike gibson wrote: Here is a new option that looks like a good possibility but it wont be available until next spring or summer. wildcountry.com/revo/
That thing looks pretty cool. I have a Silent Partner and it's been great but my only complaints are bulk and weight and it also tends to put a pretty good kink in the rope at times. The Revo doesn't appear to have any levers that could be held open in a fall like a Grigri but back up knots take care of that. I'm looking forward to trying the Revo for rope soling when it comes out.
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350
jlind wrote:I can see why the continuous loop method is very nice for big wall. Especially if needing to tag. On easier or less gear intensive routes like nose or salathe is it reasonable to not need to tag?
FYI, you can use the continuous loop without tagging at all. Personally, I never tag and prefer to just climb heavy with everything I'll need when I leave the belay. The benefit of connecting the lead line to the haul line is the ability to not carry extra rope on you when you climb (both the lead and the haul line) and you can attach additional crap to the connection point should you want to pull up once you've reached the belay.
jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 33

Before i forget. BIG THANK YOU to all of you guys for giving me a hand. You have been awesome about providing useful links and insight. I have asked questions similar to these on other forums and have been told that i am too amateur to perform these techniques if i have to ask. Which is of course bs. So, Thanks again. You guys rock.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 290

No idea what Libecki uses; obviously something that works for him. What I do for free lead rope solo...

In short: thousands of free lead pitches, Edelrid Eddy, 9.8 Glider, rope in pack, no backup knots (see above article).

Old pack

New pack

For aid solo I just use an unmodified grigri on a CE cert mallion rapide with backup knots, but on the aid front I'd defer to Ammon McNeely (ElCap Pirate), Mark Hudon ( Lots of recent, well thought out material), or Pete Zabrok ('Pass the Pitons' Pete) all on SuperTopo as I don't do much aid.

As always, it's helpful to be clear about which solo technique you're talking about or interested in - TR solo, aid solo, or free lead rope solo.
jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 33

Thanks Healyje. I am currently doing something very similar to you for free lead solo. I Dont have an eddy. I am patiently waiting for the new grigri and the revo to come to market so i can test them out. Like you i am not using backup knots for the free lead as they dont seem to be compatible with my system. I do understand the risk i am taking. For aid i will be using backup knots with my grigri as there is no excuse not to.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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