Farley question


Original Post
Daniel S. · · New Haven, CT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100

Got on this crack/dihedral yesterday and was wondering what the name/grade were...Would appreciate it if you knew and could PM me that beta!

cracks

Eric8 · · Maynard, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 245

connecticut cracks, right is 5.9, left 5.11

this message will self destruct

sara pax · · western mass · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 208

I'd say 5.8, 5.11+

Tom Dursch · · Somerville, MA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

Agree with Sara. The left is a bit of a sandbag at 5.11.

lucander · · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 240

Why isn't there a guidebook for this place? Lots of people donated to help it happen, but knowledge seems to be in the guild.

Eric8 · · Maynard, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 245

Because many climbs or access to many climbs is on private land, the landowner graciously lets people climb but does not want a guidebook.

lucander · · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 240

I'm a historian, I deal with messy stuff and heritage all the time. There are many individuals who would rather truth be silent for whatever reason. There are others who see documenting knowledge as intrinsically important, and there are others who, for whatever reason, want their knowledge to remain unpublished.

climberish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
lucander wrote:I'm a historian, I deal with messy stuff and heritage all the time. There are many individuals who would rather truth be silent for whatever reason. There are others who see documenting knowledge as intrinsically important, and there are others who, for whatever reason, want their knowledge to remain unpublished.
orrrrrrrrrrrr.......

Eric8 wrote:Because many climbs or access to many climbs is on private land, the landowner graciously lets people climb but does not want a guidebook.
Joe M. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 9,580

Lucander if you want to discuss this with the locals, please contact the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition at climbgneiss.org/

There was a time when access to Farley hung in the balance, and the WMCC did an amazing job to get climbing allowed. If the compromise, was no guidebook, it is well worth the compromise. Not everything in the world is black and white, there is much grey to be found...

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

As Eric8 says, it is a key component of the agreement between the WMCC and the private landowners that there be no guidebook. It is definitely not a question of us hiding the "truth", as the WMCC regularly gives 'tours' of parts of the crag during our Rendezvous, additionally I have personally shown scores of people around, and given information to many others, as have other locals. I, too, am an historian, David, as well as a guidebook author, contributor, and collector but accept that there are circumstances that require discretion, such as this one. If the land ownership situation changes in the future, then the no guidebook policy will surely be reconsidered.

As to the original question, the left crack is Connecticut Crack--and likely 11+ as Sara says. Technically the corner is 'unnamed' but frequently called either Connecticut Right or Connecticut Corner (preferable). I think it deserves 5.9 for the starting moves. It is an excellent climb though all too frequently wet.

Alan

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 735
lucander wrote:Why isn't there a guidebook for this place? Lots of people donated to help it happen, but knowledge seems to be in the guild.
We don't need no stinking guide books!

After seeing a cliff from far away get up close and check it out.

There has been an effort to build a data base
but I'm sure of the fact that it will never be a complete list of what has been climbed,

That guy that " whitey' guy? He has been at it along time too

Alan Rubin has the bon-e-flides if that's is the word ?

His masterful guidance should be followed !

in fact he is the go to source for the state of many "closed now"
Climbing zones,
This post? I hope it is in the spirit of Alan's response.
Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Michael Schneider wrote:Alan Rubin has the bon-e-flides if that's is the word ? His masterful guidance should be followed ! in fact he is the go to source for the state of many "closed now" Climbing zones, This post? I hope it is in the spirit of Alan's response.
Alan for climbing president 2020. :D
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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