In search of roof cracks


Original Post
Sam Latone 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Recently moved from TN to CO for work and long routes...however I find myself missing the steep roof cracks that abound in the south.

Looking for roof cracks within a 6 hour radius of Golden, CO. Closer is better. Grade isn't too much of a consideration but 12 and up is better. Looking for full body length or longer. I also would lump sustained STEEP over hanging cracks in there(45 or steeper). Additionally, OW is cool but I'm looking for #4/fists or thinner.

So far I have

Vertigo roof finish - Eldo
Brennivin - CCC
Roof routes in the White Rim area Moab

Looking to add to the list, your suggestions are appreciated. Also, whoever wants to join me for a roof crack tour...come along!

Sam

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

You may find some in the Voo. I'm not super familiar with the front range but there's bound to be some in eldo or BoCan. We've got some steep cracks at east animas down here in durango, some with small roofs. It's not gonna be like T-wall, though. I also remember seeing a lot of roof cracks along the green river (UT), especially in cataract canyon, if you're interested in a mixed river and climbing expedition.

Anthony · · Northern CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I'd look into the South Platte. Wunch's dihedral might interest you. Turkey rocks has a lot of cracks as well but I'm really not familiar with the South Platte in general. Vedauwoo will have some harder routes and its not all ow. Good steep routes that come to mind are hung like a horse and hesitation blues both easier 11's for the voo. There's some good bouldering too: beer crack, nats 3 star roof, and desiderata. There's an area called the roof ranch...might be worth checking out. I haven't gotten there yet. But with all this being said it's getting rather chilly up there so idk maybe start building a tick list? The South Platte it's good through the winter from my understanding but it really helps to have a 4x4 or HC vehicle.

Cheers

Anthony · · Northern CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

And if you do make to the Moab area the crackhouse might be worth checking out.

Sam Latone 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the replies folks, keep it comin!

Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 105

If you do a Zion trip check out organasm. It's got a 10-15ftish roof crack of hands at a solid 5.11 for pitch 2 and then a 12b finger crack for pitch 3. I've only aided it, but it's on my "go back and free" list. Nice treat right by touchstone, moonlight and monkey finger

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 6,365

There are some of these to develop here in CRNP, but a real gem is:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/capitol-roof/105718039

Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,455

Try my route at the first tier of the Avalon in Boulder Canyon.
Trad 10+ roof crack called The AntiSport.

Then the other one there, smaller roof but wider (BD#4 low and high) is called
The Sport Climbers Demise 10+

Ray Lovestead · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 117

You'll have a pretty hard time finding much. The 'roof crack' on Wunsch's isn't a pure roof. Nothing in Boulder Canyon.

Your best bet is the Voo. This is probably what you are looking for:

Moonsault

I've not got on it, the neighboring classic, Squat, is more my 'style'..

Justin Popplewell · · Manitou Springs, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 265

Turkey Tail has some nice looking roof lines.

Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,455

I gots to show you around Boulder Canyon Ray!

JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,940

Vedauwoo has a nice concentration of roof cracks and otherwise steep cracks. The really good routes at Vedauwoo feature a shortish length of off-sized crack which leans, overhangs, and/or curves about. Thus, despite only having a few pure roof cracks, the place is relatively stacked with steep crack climbing. If the routes do not satisfy you, you can also explore the boulders there, as there are dozens of 15+ foot roof crack boulder problems. Plenty of those cracks are fists or narrower, though plenty of them are either pure offwidth or have some offwidth pod or something to get through.

D. Snyder · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 60

Cathedral Spires in the SPlatte has a few. There's a hard 11a in that area but I've forgotten the formation and the name. Most notably there's Bad JuJu 12a: mountainproject.com/v/10654... This finish is W I D E.

On the Turkey Tail there's Piece of Cake 11c. As I recall there's just a couple thin hands moves before you can sink your whole hand. mountainproject.com/v/piece...

Mike Lane · · Centennial, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 905
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,215

Flatirons: Super Power, Far Out, Under the Influence, Anthem to the Sun

Eldo: Bacon and Ergs.

Splatte: Shear Shark Attack

That is all I can think of for now, and it's all 5.11 except for SSA, but nothing there < a body-length.

I'm sure I'll think of a few more later.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,215

Flatirons: Super Power(5.11+), Far Out(5.10+), Under the Influence (5.11), Anthem to the Sun (5.11+).

Eldo: Bacon and Ergs (5.11), Fianl Roof variation on Psychosis(5.11-)

Splatte: Shear Shark Attack (5.12)

That is all I can think of for now, and nothing listed here is less than a body-length of roof or steep overhang.

I'm sure I'll think of a few more later. See some photos below, meanwhile.
These are on MP.com except SSA, which didn't exist yet at the time I did SSA, so I didn't write it up.

Under the Influence:



Super Power:


Far Out:


Bacon and Ergs:

Sam Latone 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Tony B, awesome submissions! Thanks guys! This should keep me busy for a while.

Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,455

The AntiSport 5.10 BoCan

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,215

Almost forgot. Acrophelia and Acrophobia in the SSV! WISH I had pics on that one. If you do it, take a photog with you!

Sam Latone 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
Tony B wrote:Almost forgot. Acrophelia and Acrophobia in the SSV! WISH I had pics on that one. If you do it, take a photog with you!
Hey Tony, pardon my ignorance but what is SSV?
Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,285

Is Anaconda a roof crack?

Or go poach animal magnetism, its OW but classic and historic.

Colorado national monument probably has some roof cracks, there is a scene in a fryberger climbing video opening of Pizem on one, as does escalante:
Zappa roof

.5 Roof

Is there any roof cracks up in RMNP alpine?

  • edit*-oh yeah, just remembered this one from a few years back:
Equinox roof
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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