Finger Injury- Looking for Information


Original Post
blind cantaloupe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425

I am 6'2" 170lbs
I had been training fingers for a couple months. Working specifically on one arm hangs, on one pad crimps. I started with a counter weight at 35lbs, within two months my counterweight was 10lbs. I was moving down in weight about 5lbs a week. Half way through I started doing weighted hangs(70lbs) with two arms on the same one pad crimps. I wasn't doing any exercises with my fingers in twos or singularly.
After probably four to six days on I knew I was in need of a break but decided to continue. while working on a boulder problem in the gym I have done some damage in my ring finger or connecting tendon. I found an article that explains my injury very well klatring.no/LinkClick.aspx?... citing my lumbrical may be the issue, but am not sure if there is an injury with similar symptoms that I just couldn't find information on.
When I injured the finger the sequence went - In a roof. Undercling left hand right of center at waist height, both feet far to the right, my right hand on a pinch made from screw ons on a volume above my head and left of center. The movement was to a finger jug several feet to the left forcing my feet to cut. My pinky came off of the right hand hold and when I fully loaded that hand while swinging a sharp pain began between my pinky and ring finger, in my palm, and down to the insertion at my elbow with a sharp pain about half way down my arm on that same tendon/muscle.
Long explanation but i'd like to get some information on treating this as it is healing very slowly. I should also include that im using small holds and training for a v12 project.
Any helpful information is appreciated.
Thanks

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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