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Chipped holds (vandalism) on lower Little Cottonwood boulders?


Original Post
Samjay-E · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Recently saw an Instagram post about vandalism in lower Little Cottonwood Canyon. The problems mentioned in the post were Twisted, Bear Hug, Copperhead, Lances Dihedral, Baldy, Barfly, and Superfly. I was wondering if anyone had some independent confirmation of this, or some more info on the situation. If you guys want to take a look the user that posted about the damage was @jwoojwoo. Tragic situation, hopefully we can get some more info.

CornCob · · Sandy, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 20

There is more information on the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Facebook page here . It's really terrible what happened.

Alex CV · · Greater NYC area · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 200

Very sad.

Reminded me of the vandalism chipping that happened in Font many years ago.

:(

- Alex

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

Not cool....

Almost as not cool is calling a "gaston" a "gas stone".
m.facebook.com/photo.php?fb…;id=113864985295612&set=pcb.1469328593082571&source=48

sfotex · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 225
patto wrote:Not cool.... Almost as not cool is calling a "gaston" a "gas stone". m.facebook.com/photo.php?fb…;id=113864985295612&set=pcb.1469328593082571&source=48
Thanks Siri!
Crazymonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 154

dude words cant even describe the damage that they have done. sad day for SLC boulders and the community.

BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245

Sad day.... Can't think of anything else to say that really fits.

josh holmes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 215

WTF!?!

So sad to hear about this.

Samjay-E · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Anyone know if the boulders are still possible? Baldy for sure got way harder. They only hit the holds at around eye level, but I know for the "fly" problems that this is going to make them extremely hard. The opening crimps on Smiley seemed pretty critical to me. Any thoughts?

jonathan knight · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 275

The problems will still go, but the grades are going up.

Super Fluke · · Earth · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 186

Here is a link to the story.

fox13now.com/2016/11/02/cli…

Apparently 11 different problems have been altered or destoryed, primarily the Copper Head Boulder in Secret Garden at the base of the canyon.

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 165

Yes, regrettably it is true. Many boulder problems in lower Little Cottonwood Canyon have been vandalized. This intentional "smashing/prying off" of holds occurred sometime between 3 PM on Sunday the 30th and 11 AM on Monday the 31st. If any of you have any tips or information regarding who may have done this please contact local dispatch or the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance. Efforts have already gone into repairing and restoring the damage done to these problems. Most of them are still climbable but will never be the same. If you come upon any damaged or loose holds please avoid using them and inform the SLCA. If you are as dis-heartened as we are over this, then please band together with us in our show of stewardship towards this magical canyon- the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance will be holding an adopt-a-crag event in Little Cottonwood Canyon on November 12. Please join us in our ongoing efforts to protect our wonderful climbing areas!

Please click the link below for more information about the upcoming event:

http://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/adopt-a-crag/

Tom Hore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 160

"Efforts have already gone into repairing and restoring the damage done to these problems."

Wait a minute... The damage, sadly, has been done. Now people are going up to muck around with the damage?? Sure cleaning up tagged boulders and trash is great and appreciated, but now sculpting and/or comfortizing chipped boulders? That doesn't sound right either.
I don't really understand how local law enforcement would take care of the bonehead or boneheads that did this if found. Maybe somebody could enlighten me on that.

bheller · · SL UT · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 928

Tom this isn't "chipping" as is commonly used in the climbing vernacular-this is someone grudge hammering holds off of boulder problems simply to destroy them. I believe the smashed and fragmented impact zones have been brushed and smoothed-out in an effort of restoration. This seems a clear case of vandalism/destruction of private and public property to me...my guess is that's how it would be charged against those found guilty.

Charlie S · · Ogden, UT · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,546
Tom Hore wrote:but now sculpting and/or comfortizing chipped boulders?
Sounds to me more like gluing back on the rock pieces if they weren't blown to smithereens.

bheller wrote:this is someone grudge hammering holds off of boulder problems simply to destroy them.
This is the second time I've seen this mentioned...sounds like someone has an idea of who it may be but is staying tight lipped?
Kevin Chuba · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 135

When can I pay to enter
line our pockets
with natures bounty
and free rides
our time has changed

Not to sure whats going on round here but this is not cool...

mike b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 0

Just FYI, the holds were "stabilized" in that the loose broken rock that was left after the smashing of the holds was removed, and minimal glue was used in some instances to keep what remained from breaking. the structural integrity of the remaining rock was questionable on some holds. Keep in mind we are talking about 4-6 holds total here.
Tom, I am sorry if you disagree with this but its done so hope you can live with it! Overall I have had heard good comments about how things were done.
in doing this the thought was that we are not going to let some psycho ruin these problems and have control over the future of these problems.

BTW, this was not "chipping," and calling it that really bothers me. while I certainly don't condone chipping, it exists and almost every climbing area and is usually done out of a desire to create something. What was done here was deliberately smashing holds to cause destruction and hurt people, and calling this "chipping" to me is way off mark.

Tom Hore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 160

OK, OK, I've been put in my place. I know a lot of people that have put a lot of heart and soul into those boulders. I wasn't trying to cause drama. Yes, I understand the holds were smashed to Hell and I haven't had time this week to go up and look. I was just a little worried about what "repairing and restoring" meant.

mike b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 0

Definitely not put in your place Tom, with your biceps I wouldn't try to put you anywhere! just wanted to let you know what actually happened. We really tried to maintain the integrity of what was left to the best of our abilities and clean off all of the smashed up bits. Thanks for caring, always awesome to see that there are so many people who have a shared affection for LCC
p.s. - wow, the temps have been amazing up there this last week!!!!!

JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 58
Charlie S wrote: This is the second time I've seen this mentioned...sounds like someone has an idea of who it may be but is staying tight lipped?
Not that I know of. But holds were so specifically targeted and everything else basically left alone it's hard to imagine it was anything else.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,772
Charlie S wrote:This is the second time I've seen this mentioned...sounds like someone has an idea of who it may be but is staying tight lipped?
I don't think because specific boulder problems and key holds were specifically targeted that folks have an idear who it is.

Just seems to me that its not a random tag of a boulder. Its someone who boulders (or used to).

Do we know anybody angry and unbalanced enough to do this?

If it were a tagger who was bummed their art was erased, they'd still have to have some pretty intimate knowledge of the specific problems. That's not a casual relationship with these boulders.

IMHO, its someone who is mentally ill.

I'm not in the bouldering coconut telegraph enough to know who's who or what's what. I just know that this resource is world class and world known. And, someone f'd with it. They have to be crazy, selfish, etc.

The more I ponder it, the more upsetting...ugh...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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