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Looking for a project... 5.11a/b


Original Post
John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 25

I love setting goals and I'm looking for a good project somewhere near my home. I live in Superior CO (near Louisville, about 10 min SE of Boulder).

Ideal project would satisfy the following:

  • Be within a "reasonable" drive of home (Eldo is optimal... 15 mins from here. But I'd drive to BoCo, Coal Creek, etc)
  • Difficulty 5.11a or b. That used to be a possible onsight for me... now I may need a few years to do it. :)
  • Warm enough to climb in the winter on the warmer days
  • Top-rope-able. That means I can walk around and drop a rope, then microtraxion the route. I'm willing to solo up to 5.6 to get it set up.
  • Any style, but the steeper the better (to avoid injury)

Hoping the cognoscenti here can suggest a few candidates. I deeply appreciate the help and guidance from the MP community!!

John
peakest · · Manitou Springs, Colorado · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 33

I'd take a look at Castlewood Canyon if you'd like to be able to easily set up top ropes. Good amount of lower 11's to choose from.

David Hous · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 195

How about Kashmir on the West Ridge in Eldo? Very short though...

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 25

Thanks guys! Castlewood is a long drive for me (over an hour) and Kashmir looks cool but kind of a long approach for boulder problem?!

I'm still searching for something. But thanks to those who've PMed me or posted here!

David Hous · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 195

How about the regular route at practice rock in BoCan? Longer drive but right off the road. Short but sustained, good sun, maybe not as steep as you'd like though.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, Colorado · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 2,318

Country Club Crack without the boulder problem start. Best crack in Boulder and easily top rope access.

Austin Beck-Doss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Free Willie at Animal World in boulder canyon? it's 11a, and excellent

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 25
David Hous wrote:How about the regular route at practice rock in BoCan? Longer drive but right off the road. Short but sustained, good sun, maybe not as steep as you'd like though.
Definitely thought of this! It's the cover of the guidebook after all! :)

I might try it... I've mostly climbed cracks in my climbing experience, but couldn't hurt to tone up again.
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Austin Beck-Doss wrote:Free Willie at Animal World in boulder canyon? it's 11a, and excellent
Agreed, great climb.
Not such a good choice to set up a solo TR on though. Hard to get to the top and loose rock might endanger others below.

For TR purposes, maybe something at North Table?

Stays hot all winter.
John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 25
Andy Hansen wrote:Country Club Crack without the boulder problem start. Best crack in Boulder and easily top rope access.
I looked at this, but... it's two pitches, right? Can you access the P1 belay? Or were you suggesting TRing P1-P2 as one? (I assume the combined length is less than 60m?)

I had rejected Country Club as too hard at 11c, but you say to skip the start? How is this done? Is it 11a(ish) if you do it this way?

Athlete's Feat looks really good too... 11a, but 5 pitches (!!) and probably not TRable.
percious · · Bear Creek, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,185

I second Free Willy. It's just vertical or slightly overhanging, I believe you _can_ set a toprope on it, and it was my first 11 onsight, (in other words, it's pretty soft). Canibus Sportiva is also at animal world and is a wonderful 10d. bring some small cams for the start.

Lust @ Avalon in Bocan is solid 10d, but has decent protection and very technical. Supernatural is good in that area, 10d/11a depending on who you talk to.

There are a couple of 11s at Canal Zone in CCC that are soft and good, one of them is a 1 move wonder.

Most of the sport 11 climbs in Bocan and CCC you can go bolt-to-bolt so don't be afeared of getting on them, even without the TR practice!

cheers.
-chris

Patrick Vernon · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 935

Superarete below super slab fits all of your criteria! .11a/b, solid for the grade and you can set up a TR with a short 5.0 scramble. Sunny later in the day mountainproject.com/v/supar…. It also has very good climbing.

JulianG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 130

Try North Table mountain I think MP list 1/4 of all the routes as TopRope. Also the climb are not that long with short cruxes. Good to practice and get stronger. Just don't go there during the weekend

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 80

i bet if you open to any page, in any guide book, for any ctag, you'll find something suitable.

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,416

It's a little harder than you requested but Silver Bullet at Quarry Wall on Table Mountain meets your other criteria.

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 25
Patrick Vernon wrote:Superarete below super slab fits all of your criteria! .11a/b, solid for the grade and you can set up a TR with a short 5.0 scramble. Sunny later in the day mountainproject.com/v/supar…. It also has very good climbing.
Wow, I'd never heard of this climb before. Thanks Patrick!

What's the scramble? Up the Lower Ramp? Or do the 5.2 West Face of Lower Ramp?

--John
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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